Thursday, September 12, 2013

Hilo and snorkeling heaven in Kapoho - January 2-5, 2013


Trip Index
It was time for the third portion of our trip, three nights at the Lagoon House!  We had stayed in Kapoho on our last trip to the Big Island to experience Champagne Pond (which we read about in the "Big Island Revealed" guidebook), a product of "creating lemonade from lemons".  After lava from Kilauea devastated the Kapoho community in 1960, owners of the surviving homes in the area figured out that if they dredged the lava, they could create thermal pools in their backyards from the warm spring water bubbling up.  Champagne Pond is special because it contains both fresh spring water warmed by the volcano and sea water from the ocean, making it a really comfortable snorkeling environment that still can support aquatic life; sea turtles can be seen in the pond as well some fish.  The pond itself is on public land, but several homes are "pond-front".  One homeowner took it a step further and built an "aquarium" in the backyard by erecting an underwater gate across a small opening between the private pond and Champagne Pond.  The gate kept in all the fish that the owner stocked in the private pond, yet allowed fresh water from Champagne Pond to flow in and out, avoiding stagnation.  What a great idea!

The place that we stayed at on our previous trip, Champagne Pond Cottage, was unavailable for the nights that we wanted.  I had narrowed it down to two other potential rentals, the Lagoon House (neighboring to Champagne Pond Cottage) and one home right on the Wai'opae Tidepools, a recommended snorkeling spot which we hadn't experienced yet.  Lagoon House was way more expensive, but I ended up booking it since my parents were beginner snorkelers and the calm, warm, not-so-salty water from Champagne Pond would make a more pleasant experience than being in the open ocean with the other home.  I had also wanted to swim with "Puffy" the resident puffer fish, but unfortunately, it had died back in March.

Check in wasn't until 3pm, and we needed to depart Pele's Secret Garden at 10am, so we headed over to the Hawaii Volcanoes Visitor Center located at the entrance to the park to look at the displays and play around with the infamous "Summit Eruption" trigger box.  (ask the ranger for it if it's not on the desk)

bye bye Pele's Secret Garden
oh no, what have you done?!

Next, we drove to Hilo to peruse the farmer's market as it was Wednesday ("big days" are Wednesdays and Saturdays from 6am to 4pm, smaller selection the rest of the days from 7am to 4pm) to buy some fruits and vegetables, then headed for lunch at Sombat's Fresh Thai Cuisine as it was open today.  It was a cute little restaurant that also had counter service if you wanted take-out.

"Thai hot" green curry, just for Kaleb
Thai fried rice, milder curry, drunken noodles

We stopped at a KTA supermarket along Highway 11 to replenish on groceries, then made the 40-minute drive from Hilo to Pahoa to pick up the house keys and security gate tag from the rental management office lock box.  There was also a supermarket in the same complex called Malama Market which we went to during the remainder of the week to pick up more items.

A leisurely 20-minute drive through lush rainforest and papaya fields brought us to the entrance to the Kapoho Beach Lot community.  An automatic gate unlocked once we waved the security tag.  Narrow roads led us to Lagoon House.

beautiful custom gate

The house was as pictured on the website.  The kitchen could have used some remodeling, but the snorkeling lagoon was the main attraction.  There was even a bucket full of fish food pellets with instructions on how much and when to feed the fish.  A caretaker from a few houses down came to visit us the next day to ask how we were doing and to check on the fish.

the backyard in the evening (public Champagne Pond in upper left, lagoon below, neighbor's house pond right)

Snorkeling equipment was stacked on a shelf in the backyard, but it wasn't in good shape.  The fins were usable.  I recommend bringing your own mask and snorkel, or rent a set from a local shop.  My dad wears glasses (with different prescription in each eye) so I bought for him a prescription dive mask from GetWetStore.com.  If you wear glasses, it's handy to own a prescription mask so you can take advantage of snorkeling opportunities and see the underwater world.  I also bought my parents some dry snorkels.  There weren't any adult life jackets at the house either (just a couple of tattered infant life vests).  After driving around town failing to locate any adult life jackets, my parents resorted to using other flotation devices such as inner tubes (not great) and pool noodles (better).  If you require flotation assistance, best to bring your own.  I also recommend wearing beach or reef shoes (there were a few sad looking pairs on the shelf) to protect your feet from the rocks in the pond.

I brought my Panasonic TS4 waterproof camera to capture all the fun.  (other cameras can be found on Amazon)  A floating camera strap was helpful (I recommend looping your existing camera strap around it versus swapping straps).

We saw different varieties of fish, a couple of eels (which surprised us..."aaaaahhh, there's a snake in the water!"), several baby puffers, and some translucent tiny shrimp feeding on rocks in the narrow channel on the left side of the pond.

feeding the fish
inner tubes weren't so great
Kaleb enjoying the hammock
pool noodles worked better
hello!
puffer fish

A video of the fish as we were throwing pellets into the pond (the silver ones were more aggressive than the exotic ones):


Video of Mom feeding them while snorkeling (and me sounding like Darth Vader):


Video of a white eel and a vivid blue eel in the water, sick...:



There were other critters roaming around the house:

wild turkey
gecko

Kaleb and I jumped over into the public Champagne Pond to check it out; we were underwhelmed and after ten minutes with no turtle sightings and swimming around crowds of snorkelers, we went back to our private lagoon.  When we first tried Champagne Pond on our last trip, it was really great, but now that we had experienced Lagoon House, it was no comparison.

One of the days, we all took a walk on the beach, accessible through public easements in the neighborhood.  Kaleb and I were curious if the coral graffiti we had left on our previous trip was still there.  Despite 2.5 years of exposure to the elements, it endured!  We fixed it back up; let's see if it's still there a few years from now.

easement
this was here last time too
original graffiti back in April 2011
found again Jan 2013

We had plans to visit the lava viewing site in Kalapana, which was not very far from the house, but the days went by so fast that we didn't make it.  We didn't even drive over to the Wai'opae Tidepools, which was just a neighborhood away.  Having our own private lagoon was just awesome.  I loved that it was bathwater-warm and not salty.  The water was so calm, great for beginners like my parents or young children...it was fun to see them plan their day around snorkeling.  We enjoyed being able to float around the pond spending the day watching schools of fish eat algae from the rocks, go on a puffer fish or eel hunt, feed the fish with lettuce, and so forth, then get out of the water, rinse off in the outdoor shower, go in and have a cold drink.  It was sad when it was time to go; I could have stayed another couple of nights here.

on the balcony of Lagoon House, our last day
sunset from the edge of the property

Remember when I mentioned that we flew roundtrip in and out of Kona to save $600 and would have to drive 4 hours in the early morning to get to the airport?   Fortunately, we didn't have to.  A Hawaiian Airlines representative sent me an email earlier in the week, informing us that our 11:47am departure from Kona was replaced by a 9:50am departure due to a schedule change that resulted in only a 50 minute layover with the original flight, and would I verify receipt of the email and acceptance of the itinerary adjustment?  9:50am meant that we would need to leave Kapoho around 4am!  Instead of accepting the flight, I replied back requesting to leave from Hilo instead, as I checked that there was flight availability and it wouldn't hurt to ask.  The answer was yes!  Our flights were changed from transferring in Maui to transferring in Honolulu, and our departure from Hilo was a decent 10:19am, which gave us a few hours back for sleeping.  There was no change fee either.  What a blessing!

Hilo airport was small and homey.  The car rental return was just in front of the terminal.  As we were driving in, we noticed that Air Force One was parked in the back!  The Obamas were vacationing in Hawaii at the same time; perhaps they decided to park the plane in a quiet place versus at the Honolulu airport.  We walked over to where we could take pictures, but there was an officer policing the area and yelled at us to stay away, so we located another vantage point.

Air Force One

There was just one main waiting room in the terminal, and when your flight was called, you'd go to the gate area.

Hilo airport

When we arrived in Honolulu, we had a four-hour layover, so after grabbing some lunch at the Kona Brewing Company, we headed over to the United Club, despite flying on Hawaiian, since I had a membership (thanks to the United Club Visa card, which included club membership but costs a hefty $395 annual fee, waived for the first year when I signed up).  Unfortunately, I could only bring 2 guests in for free, so Kaleb volunteered to sit at a bar instead.

teas, hot chocolate
coffee machine, juices, snacks
dessert!
complimentary bar in the back

It turned out that Joe Torre was sitting nearby...my dad saw someone go up to him and ask him for a photograph.  We felt bad asking him again for one, so we just took a picture in stealth.

Joe sitting by the window

When it was time to head to our gate, we had a long hike from the club.  On the way, we stumbled onto a LeSportSac store and my mom bought a Happy Zodiac bag.  Continuing our walk, we passed by several opportunities to take the intra-airport shuttle.  Let's just say I recommend taking the shuttle!  The journey was longer than I had anticipated and we hustled just in time to go to the restroom before boarding.

The flight back was uneventful, with dinner served in coach.


That was the end of our trip...what a way to start 2013.  I've got several trips in the pipeline for the blog...stay tuned!

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Thursday, September 5, 2013

Celebrating New Year's at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park - December 31, 2012 - January 1, 2013


Trip Index
Since we were starting from the Waikoloa area, I decided to drive along the north side of the Big Island on Highway 19, a 2.5 hour journey.  Last trip, we went the southern route and it took quite a lot of time.  We dropped by the fruit stand again as it was on the way; this time, the mom was there.  Unfortunately she was out of longans.

We stopped in Akaka Falls State Park to view Akaka Falls.  The weather was overcast and it looked like it just rained, which was not surprising as Hilo is one of the wettest cities in the world.  The entrance fee is $5 per car in the parking lot or $1 per pedestrian.  We ended up parking on the road just outside of the official parking lot and walked in, paying the pedestrian rate.  A state park employee policed the entrance and collected money.

The path to Akaka and Kahuna Falls is a circular loop, fully paved and includes some stairs.  I had been here before and remembered that I couldn't really see Kahuna Falls very well from its vista point off the loop, so we walked half the loop towards Akaka Falls through lush rain forest, took pictures and returned to the car.

a paved flat section
Akaka Falls

We then headed to Hilo in search of lunch.  I had looked through my copy of the "Big Island Revealed" guidebook for suggestions, and a Thai restaurant called Sombat's was recommended.  It was hard to find, situated in a corner of a old faded building called "Waiakea Kai Plaza". (you can see signage from the main highway)   When we got there, the place was closed for the holidays, but was to re-open January 2.  We ended up parking downtown and eating at Cafe Pesto as it was one of the few restaurants still open for late lunch.  I didn't take any pictures of the food as I was extremely hungry, but it was standard fare.

I had found our home for the next two nights on VRBO: "Pele's Secret Garden".   It was just as pictured and filled with all sorts of nice surprises like fresh fruit, a bottle of wine, breakfast items and a welcome letter from the owner.  It felt like staying at a friend's home again, with all the basics and so much more.

local fruit
wine
a warm welcome from the owner

For New Year's Eve, I made a reservation for the restaurant in Kilauea Lodge on OpenTable.  There are very few restaurants in Volcano as it is a small "village"; I booked it three weeks in advance and the earliest seating I could get was 7:30pm.  When we arrived, the restaurant was packed.  It was  festively decorated for the holidays.  Happy New Year!

decorated hanging umbrellas
mai tai toast
"alpine" soup
asparagus soup
bon appetit!
duck a l'orange
rack of lamb
in front of the "International Fireplace"

To start 2013, we headed to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park; it was open on New Year's Day!  We made our way from the Jaggar Museum to the Thurston Lava Tube, then down the Chain of Craters Road to the Sea Arch.  We were fortunate to always be ahead of the tour buses at every stop.

at Kilauea Caldera
entrance to Thurston Lava Tube
inside the lava tube
lava devastation along the Chain of Craters road
help me out of the lava!
Holei Sea Arch

We drove back up to the summit, then went on a hike across Kilauea Iki crater.  It was four miles round-trip through cracked and uneven terrain plus some steep footing and stairs, so it was a testament to how tough my parents were to complete the hike wearing just sandals, plus my mom was carrying a big purse!  Though they made it through the hike, I would recommend wearing sturdier shoes.  (I forgot to tell them before we left the house, and Kaleb carried my mom's purse in his backpack part way into the hike)  The last eruption happened in 1959, but steam still escaped from vents and cracks, and the ground was warm to the touch.

those small specks out on the crater were people halfway along the trail
stairs down
fauna
uneven terrain
Mom leading the way towards the steam vents

If you have bandwidth and time to watch a video of the steam vents:


After the hike, we went back home for dinner.  Later that night, we set out again to look at the caldera in the darkness, something to take advantage of when your lodging is only ten minutes away from the park versus three hours from Kona.  There was hardly any light in the parking lot.  I would recommend bringing a flashlight as well as a jacket as it gets chilly at this higher elevation.

"liquid hot magma!"

Tomorrow, we set out for Kapoho and the Lagoon House!

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Thursday, August 29, 2013

New Year's week on the Big Island of Hawaii - Waikoloa, December 28-31, 2012


Trip Index
It had been a while since I went on a trip with my parents, so last fall, I had asked them where they wanted to go.  They had never visited the Big Island of Hawaii, so I planned a trip for New Year's, as my parents were out of town during Thanksgiving week (thus our trip to Cabo) and Christmas was reserved for extended family activities.

One thing that I had learned on my very first trip to the Big Island (that we had applied on our trip over a year ago) was to split the hotel nights up across the island, from west-to-east, or vice versa.  It had taken over three hours to drive from Kona to Volcano one way, which made for a very tiring day excursion from Kona and we hardly got to see much of the national park.  I planned a west-to-east itinerary for this trip, spending three nights in the Waikoloa area, followed by a couple of nights in Volcano, then ending with three nights in the Hilo area.

A learning from our last trip to the Big Island was that it was a drag to drive four hours back to Kona airport from Hilo.  So ideally, we'd book flights going into Kona, but departing from Hilo.  Unfortunately, the price for the open-jaw ticket was $600 more for the four of us than roundtrip Kona, so we decided to suck it up and wake up at 3:30am on the last day of our trip to drive back.

We enjoy having the convenience of a kitchen and laundry while on vacation.  Trading for a timeshare on the Big Island was out of the question because of the way the nights were planned across the island.  The timeshare would have been for seven nights in Kona.  I turned to using Airbnb and VRBO to rent nights at condos and homes.  Some properties require a minimum number of nights (even weeks!) so I was locked out of some properties due to the short stays.  Plus, it was late September when I started searching, and many places were already booked for the holidays.  Try to book Hawaiian holiday rentals as early as you can to ensure a good location for your budget, as prices normally won't budge due to high demand.  There have been some horror stories regarding vacation rentals; be sure there are plenty of reviews for the properties you are interested in so you are prepared.

The Onizuka Center for International Astronomy on Mauna Kea was on my to-do list, so I had my eye on an inexpensive Waikoloa Village condo on VRBO, as condos within my budget at the Waikoloa Resort were already booked.  The location was relatively close to Mauna Kea (about 1.5 hours away) and I didn't care that it was not near the beach.  However, someone rented it just as I sent the inquiry.  The next few days, I ended up sending a few more inquiries to ads for neighboring condos, but no response.  Fortunately, I decided to check Airbnb again, and a new listing had been posted for a beautiful condo in Waikoloa Resort within my budget, and our dates were available!  I immediately booked it (as you can purchase directly on Airbnb) and got very quick replies from the owner.  I was lucky to find a place at such short notice and great price within the Waikoloa Resort, right next to the Kings Shops and Queens Marketplace.  Since it was a new listing (the owner switched from a traditional property manager to Airbnb), there were no reviews, nor did the property calendar show any nights had been rented, but based on the information listed in the ad, I was able to find reviews of that specific condo elsewhere on the internet, which settled my doubts.

I'll talk more about the other properties when we get to that point in the trip...let's dive in!

On Friday morning, the four of us flew on Hawaiian Airlines from San Jose to Kona, transferring in Honolulu.  I prefer to fly on United to collect frequent flyer miles and have an opportunity for complimentary upgrades to first class for myself and a companion due to my Premier Gold status, but Hawaiian had a much lower fare and I wouldn't be able to get all of us into first class anyway.  The airplane was a Boeing 767 2-3-2 configuration; at booking, two sets of two seats were still available for assignment, yay!  Hawaiian still serves hot meals in coach class.  Last time we flew Hawaiian back in 2009, the meal was served in a cardboard box and consisted of an unappetizing enchilada (a burrito on the return flight) and a brownie.  What can one expect for free?  Then a few months before this trip, Hawaiian switched to "new coach service" with improved meals and wine inclusion...very similar to offerings on international flights.

not too bad

In Honolulu, we landed in one terminal and walked to another terminal for our connection.  The airport walkways are partly in open air, so when we exited out the terminal doors, we were caressed by a warm breeze and brilliant sunshine, a contrast to the winter environment we had left six hours ago (if we are allowed to complain about California weather...).  We're in Hawaii!

In the second terminal, there was a food court, so we got some lunch, none of which qualified for a blog picture.

The flight from Honolulu to Kona was on a smaller Boeing 717 plane.  Since it was a short flight, there was just packaged guava juice service.  I rented a full-size car from Dollar using a code that I unexpectedly found on my employee discount website.  Usually I find better codes and coupons on carrentalsavers.com but not this time.  Since holiday car rentals in Hawaii are very expensive, it pays to try out every code and coupon combination you can find.  Another good website to try is discounthawaiicarrentals.com.

First stop...Costco!  We bought items with the knowledge that we would be moving from place to place, making sure things could last outside of the refrigerator for a bit, especially when we went from Kona to Volcano.  (though I did splurge on some poke that I knew we'd finish in the next day or two)   For smaller items such as cooking oil, butter and ice cream, we stopped by the Island Gourmet Market in the Queens Marketplace.

Afterwards, we drove half an hour to our home for the next three nights, the Fairway Villas at Waikoloa.  The condo was exactly as pictured (so I didn't bother taking any pics), and it felt like we were staying at a friend's house, which was nice.  There were condiments in the refrigerator, basics in the pantry like foil, plastic wrap, sandwich bags, and coffee filters.  Even laundry detergent!  The golf course was just right outside the balcony, so it was entertaining to watch inexperienced golfers whacking at the ball.  There was internet available, but it was a wired connection requiring an ethernet cable to connect to the modem, which we didn't have.  What we ended up doing to get a connection was to sit close to the balcony, as the Kings Shops free wi-fi signal was strong enough to cross the lagoon.

The condo complex had a community barbeque area so we had purchased steaks for easy meals.  However, if you got to the barbeques during prime dinner time, you had to wait in line because everyone had the same idea.  Best to show up early!


On Saturday, we visited the Waimea Homestead Farmers Market in Waimea.  There wasn't much there, more cooked food and crafts than fruits and vegetables, but it could have been because we arrived late in the morning.  We did buy a few fruits and I was able to find a pack of the rare white tea from Volcano that Kaleb and I enjoyed on our last visit.  On the way back, we happened upon a makeshift fruit and vegetable stand in front of a small house adjacent to a laundromat, and ended up buying a ton, including some longans, one of my favorite fruits.  My mom would ask the price of various bagged items from the boy tending the stand, and he would respond "two dollars".  Every inquiry was met with "two dollars".  We didn't believe everything was just two dollars because of the amount in the bags and quality.  Perhaps his parents would yell at him later for selling everything for two dollars each.

yummy longans

That afternoon, we walked over to the Kings Shops, which were just across the lagoon from the condo complex.  Some nice higher end shops and restaurants were there, such as Louis Vuitton, Coach, Roy's and Merriman's.  The small Macy's there contained designer clothing.

our condo was on the top floor of the building in the picture
lagoon adjacent to the Kings Shops

We didn't buy anything, though we did spend some time looking at real estate listings posted outside a realtor's office.  For mere millions, you could own a home in paradise!  (or ~$500k for a condo like the one we were staying at)

Sunday, we headed out to Hapuna Beach, which is known for its soft white sand and perfect waves for body surfing and boogie boarding.  The condo had some beach toys stored in the closet on the back porch.  Unfortunately the boogie board was broken in half under the lining, but the chairs and umbrella came in handy.  Parking was scarce, but fortunately I only had to circle once before someone backed out.

The waves were coming in pretty hard that day, but that didn't stop folks from entering the water.

Hapuna Beach
Mom and Dad enjoying the sunshine

Since the waves were too strong for regular swimming, after enjoying the sounds of the ocean and having lunch, we returned home and took a dip in the condo pool.  The water was pretty brisk!

This was our last night on the west side of the Big Island.  We didn't get a chance to visit the observatory...next time perhaps.  Tomorrow, we're off to Volcano!

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