Thursday, June 12, 2014

Flying to New Zealand via Honolulu, visiting Auckland and Devonport - March 8-10, 2014


Trip Index

***

It seemed so long ago when I booked our award tickets last July but time flew and the big trip was at our doorstep.  Since I was redeeming miles, flights were limited and the route wasn't the most direct.  We flew from San Francisco (SFO) to Honolulu (HNL), then to Auckland (AKL).  At time of booking, the flight from SFO to HNL did not have any business award seats available but all the other longer flights were in business class, so I was okay with sitting in economy.  You'd think that the system would be smart enough to automatically put us on a waitlist in case any business award seats opened up for the SFO-HNL leg (since I redeemed award miles for business class for the entire itinerary) but of course it wasn't so, and I had to call United reservations to be placed on the waiting list.  After doing so, a notation of "I class requested" ("I" meaning "business award") for that flight showed up when I checked my account online.

When I booked the flight, my status with United was "Premier Silver" so I was unable to select any Economy Plus (E+) seats for the SFO-HNL leg until 24 hours before departure.  Fortunately in January, United decided to offer me a free bump-up in status to "Premier Gold" until May 31, so I was able to select E+ seats immediately; at least we'd have a little more space if we didn't get off the waitlist.  I learned from reading the United Flyertalk forum that sometimes award or upgrade seats open up but it doesn't automatically clear people on the waitlist.  I did a dummy booking almost every day to check for "I" seats (here is a tutorial on how to see fare classes on United.com).  One day it finally changed from "I0" (no seats) to "I2" (2 available) but I was still waitlisted.  I immediately called United reservations and asked the phone agent to check my waitlist status.  He told me that it hadn't changed, and I asked him if he could check to see if there were any seats available anyway.  He didn't sound enthused about it, but as he checked, he exclaimed "Ah!  There are seats!" and he wondered aloud why my request hadn't cleared automatically.  It's possible that I may have leapfrogged people ahead of me on the waitlist.  Perseverance paid off!

After weighing the pros and cons of parking the car in long-term versus asking for a ride or ordering an airport shuttle, it made sense to rent a car one-way from home to San Francisco International.  It took longer than I thought to return the car and take the AirTrain to Terminal 3 so by the time we arrived at the gate for flight UA 73, they were already announcing pre-boarding.  I suppose technically we were right on time!

left side of 2-1-2 BusinessFirst cabin configuration
AC power and noise canceling headphones
lots of space to stretch out
you can adjust your seat many ways
a 9-pin S-Video socket
post-departure snacks

We were offered a pre-departure beverage of our choice while the plane was loading up.  Once we were in the air, the flight attendants delivered ramekins of warm nuts, took another beverage order as well as our dinner order.  The entree choices were either filet mignon or pasta primavera.  I suspected that since we were flying on awards, that we would have last pick of meals and it was confirmed when the flight attendant asked if pasta was okay for us.  She did offer to check the crew meals to see if there was anything we might want from there, but we didn't want to take their food, especially if we didn't have any allergies to the meal offered.  I was pleasantly surprised to find fresh spinach on the pasta and it tasted fine.  The flight attendants rolled out an ice cream sundae cart for dessert, with your choice of toppings...yum!

a decent meal
ice cream at 30,000 feet

Even though we had lie-flat seats, we didn't try it out.  Kaleb and I spent the flight catching up on movies released a few months ago.

We landed in Honolulu and had about a 3 hour layover.  Our next flight was on Air New Zealand (NZ 9), and business class passengers got access to Japan Air Lines' Sakura Lounge, with free wi-fi and some substantial snacks.

that day's wi-fi access info
cold beverages
all you can pour
hot soup, fresh fruit and sandwiches

The business class seats on this Air New Zealand flight were just recliners and did not fold down a full 180 degrees, but it was still more comfortable than sitting in coach. 

recliner-style seats with adjustable personal TV screens in between
the lemon slice is a nice touch

The purser visited each passenger in the business cabin, delivering a personal welcome, which was a nice gesture.  The amenity kit was very hip with purple striped socks and fun eye mask. 

contents of amenity kit

Even though our flight was a red-eye (10pm departure), we were still served a full dinner. 

NZ9 supper menu
beverage choices
seared ahi tuna, bread, even a little bottle of olive oil for dipping
mahi mahi
braised beef
cheesecake with pineapple sauce

After dinner, the cabin lights dimmed and we settled into our seats to get some sleep.  The earplugs included in the amenity kit helped but it was hard to sleep sitting up.  That was probably why we were able to get business award seats on this flight, versus one with a lie-flat seat.

I was able to get a few hours of shut-eye.  When I woke up, most of the cabin was still asleep, with one or two people watching their entertainment system or working on their laptop.  The flight attendant noticed I was awake and offered me a beverage and snack.  An hour later, the lights turned on and breakfast service commenced.

cup of hot tea and cookie
mango banana smoothie
breakfast menu
first course of fruit and pastry (the croissant was very stale)
omelette with Portuguese sausage

When we arrived in Auckland, there was no problem going through passport control.  As New Zealand is strict regarding biological products coming into the country, we had to declare all the food that we brought as well as have our hiking boots inspected.  We told the agent that we were carrying freeze-dried backpacking food and instant noodles and all he said was "that's fine" without even looking inside our luggage!  The hiking boots he was more careful about, checking the soles for any dirt clumps, and even throwing out a bit of debris that was at the bottom of the bag I used to carry my shoes.  Afterwards, all of our luggage and carry-ons had to go through an X-ray machine, probably looking for agricultural items, so even though our food wasn't searched by hand, the machine presumably would catch illegal items.

Once we finished inspection, we exited the secure area, and our transfer was waiting for us, holding up a sign with my name on it.  He introduced himself as "Uncle" and we found out that was his actual name!  (he changed it due to Asian customers calling him "uncle" as a term of endearment)  He waited for us while we got a SIM card from one of the vendors at the airport; Uncle seemed to know everyone working at the shops there.  (The SIM card helped a lot during our stay in NZ, being able to call and access data for a mere $35.  If you have an unlocked phone, I highly recommend getting a SIM card if you are traveling on your own in NZ.)  Afterwards, Uncle drove us from the airport to our lodging for the night, the Waldorf Stadium Apartments.  During the 40 minute ride, we had a nice conversation about Auckland, rugby and Uncle's business.  He showed us around the area, pointed out the nearest grocery store to our lodging, and walked us and our luggage all the way into the lobby.  We were so happy with the service Uncle provided that we gave him a tip, even though tipping is not customary in New Zealand, and he refused at first, but we insisted, so he accepted it with a big smile and hugged us.  If you need transfer services in New Zealand, please don't hesitate to contact Uncle Harding.  I didn't get a business card from him and it was hard to locate any contact information on the internet, but I did find an email and phone: uncleharding@xtra.co.nz, mobile 027 4847 158.

The Waldorf Stadium Apartments had a good location, within walking distance of Queen Street and the Ferry Terminal.  I hoped that we would be able to check in despite arriving at 9am, and fortunately, a room was available!  We got a complimentary upgrade to an executive 1-bedroom apartment (number 910).  The accommodations were nicer than I expected for the price, with a full kitchen as well as washer/dryer.  The refrigerator came with a little bottle of milk. (eventually we find that every motel offered milk!)

the exterior
living room
separate bedroom
kitchen
separate recycling bins
bathroom
washer/dryer
toiletries
ever heard of a "natural" shower cap?
small dining room
separate office
balcony
fancy coffee machine
large selection of teas and coffees
power outlets had their own "off" button

We took a little nap, then ventured out to see a bit of Auckland and grab some lunch.  Kaleb was having problems activating the SIM card and the wi-fi was not free at the apartment, so we went in search of some internet, finding a McDonald's at the end of Queen Street that had the slowest wi-fi ever.  Eventually Kaleb was able to get online and get the phone working; in the meantime, we tried one of their entrees called the Georgie Pie, which was essentially a "pasty" (British comfort food).

like a hand-held pot pie

We walked to the Ferry Building to get more information regarding the hop-on-hop-off (HOHO) bus and tours.  There was a HOHO bus but it didn't look interesting to us.  We found a short tour to Devonport, so we signed up for the next available and grabbed some Pride and Joy ice cream to pass the time.

fun flavors
passionfruit and super chocolate

We boarded the ferry and enjoyed a short cruise over to Devonport.

on the top deck of the ferry
say bye to the Ferry Building
other boats in the harbor
Devonport ahead

We then got on a small tour bus along with a few other tourists from Australia.  The bus driver was also our tour guide, taking us around town, stopping by vista points, old bunkers, and a quaint downtown.  He talked about the homes in the area, and they weren't cheap.  Lorde the pop star grew up here, though her song "Royals" alludes to a more humble background.

fortification
Rangitoto volcano island
relief map of the bay
Auckland in the distance
cool glass art by Peter Raos

We took the ferry back, walked to the Sky Tower and ate at a restaurant across the street called "Depot".  The food there was so delicious...I still think about those fresh oysters.  Too bad they ran out of fresh raw clams that evening!  We ended up ordering way too much food, but I wanted to try everything.

people were bungying off the Sky Tower as we ate
Kaleb's personal pitcher of beer
lime and bitters for me
fresh Bluff oysters
fall-off-the-bone succulent lamb ribs
piping hot bite-sized turbot sliders - the fish was fresh off the grill
rich bone marrow

Our stomachs achingly full, we walked back to the Waldorf, stopping by a Countdown grocery store along the way to pick up bread, snacks and fruit.  The prices were okay, not cheap but not a rip-off either.


This was a nice start to our trip to New Zealand.  I didn't have a lot of jet lag because the time difference was technically just 5 hours (as we lost a whole day).  We missed out on Daylight Savings Time as well!

Tomorrow, we tackle driving on the left side of the road, heading to Tongariro National Park.  Stay tuned!


***

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Previous post:  Planning and preparing for our epic vacation to New Zealand and the Maldives



Thursday, May 22, 2014

Planning and preparing for our epic vacation to New Zealand and the Maldives


Trip Index

***

At our workplace, employees earn a 2-month sabbatical every 7 years and have up to 3 years to use it (or lose it).  Kaleb was already eligible over a year and a half ago; he decided to start it in March 2014 and check off a destination from his and my bucket list - New Zealand.  I had already taken my sabbatical a couple of years ago (read about my adventures starting here), but I did have 32 vacation days accrued.  I was able to negotiate one month off from work with my manager and co-workers in order to join Kaleb for half of his sabbatical.

PLANNING

Kaleb and I wanted to focus on hiking and nature in New Zealand and traditional guided land tours didn't suffice.  Through extensive searching online, I found an 18-day self-driving hiking adventure package through New Zealand Wholesale Travel.  We had one more week to plan so I considered another place I was interested in - the Maldives.  This destination has been frequently featured in travel magazines and global warming discussions (as the lowest country in the world, it'd be underwater in 50 years or so if sea levels continue to rise at their current rate), and we were already flying halfway across the globe, so why not?

A trip of this magnitude may drain one's bank account, but I used lots of opportunities to save on costs.  I will describe my techniques for saving money on major trip components to help the reader get an idea of what's involved.  It can get a bit technical, and I hope you can follow along...one or more of these tips might help you in the future!

Here is a breakdown of the travel components that were obtained pre-trip:
  • Business class plane tickets for almost every leg of the trip
  • 18 day self-drive Hiking Explorer trip of North and South Island, which included the following:
    • Private transfers and rental car where applicable
    • All accommodations
    • Tongariro Guided Day Walk
    • Air New Zealand coach flight from Taupo to Christchurch
    • 3-day all-inclusive Routeburn Track Guided Walk
    • Helicopter ride to Franz Josef Glacier
    • Tranz Alpine train ride from Greymouth to Christchurch
  • 1 night at the Sheraton Singapore Towers before heading to the Maldives
  • 7 nights at the Conrad Maldives Rangali Island resort
  • 1 night at the Holiday Inn Express Clarke Quay in Singapore returning from the Maldives
  • City tour in Seoul during transit back to the USA

Business class tickets:  One normally would save money flying in the back of the plane versus up front, but I redeemed 270,000 United MileagePlus frequent flyer miles for a pair of business class tickets from the US to Auckland, Christchurch to Singapore (a 9 day stopover here to fit in the Maldives trip), and Singapore back to the USA via South Korea.  This was done back in July 2013 so 8 months in advance.  I also transferred American Express Membership Rewards points to Singapore Airlines KrisFlyer miles to redeem for roundtrip flights between Singapore and the Maldives.  I priced out our whole flight itinerary and it would have cost around $13k per person if paying cash!   Redeeming frequent flyer miles for business or first class tickets is a great value.  Besides, not all of the United miles were actually flown by me (what Flyertalkers call "butt-in-seat" miles or BIS miles).  I had applied for personal and business United credit cards that offered bonuses of 50k miles each after a certain dollar amount of spend within a few months.  Many of the cards waived the first year's annual fee, so it was basically free miles for my normal spending, then I'd cancel the cards if I didn't want them before the year was up.  I also supplemented my stash of United miles when they had a 40% off sale on miles as well as taken advantage of 2.2 cent per mile "Award Accelerator" offers seen from time to time within my flight reservations on the United website.  In the end, the cash value of the miles I redeemed for business class awards was less than had I spent my own money to buy economy tickets.  If you are interested the hobby of collecting miles and points and want to learn more, I recommend reading blogs such as The Points Guy or Million Mile Secrets and peruse Flyertalk.com.  You should also have excellent credit, not carry a balance (not worth it to go into debt for these bonuses), and be highly organized to keep track of which cards you've signed up for, which cards to cancel, and timing your purchases to meet minimum spend for the bonuses within the requisite period of time.

enjoying the United "BusinessFirst" cabin

To collect AMEX points, I applied for a credit card with a sign-up bonus of 60k Membership Rewards points which I transferred over to Singapore Airlines KrisFlyer to redeem for Singapore to Maldives flights.  Booking Singapore Airlines award flights online gave a 15% mileage redemption discount so that helped save miles, but by the time I needed to secure flights for the trip (a few weeks before departure), I only accrued enough points for business class going there and economy class return.  Singapore Airlines is one of the best to fly in economy, and the flight was only 4.5 hours long, so it wasn't so terrible. ;)

Singapore business class on the A330-300

As we were flying business class most of the time, this allowed access into the airline lounges.  Some of them had decent food offerings and drinks so we didn't have to buy breakfast/lunch/dinner, saving on meal costs.

late dinner in the lounge

18-day self-drive itinerary in New Zealand:  I didn't save much money by booking with New Zealand Wholesale Travel, but I saved a lot of planning as the itinerary was already efficiently thought out and they took care of securing reservations for air/transfers/rental car/hotel/activities.  Their Hiking Explorer itinerary suited us well, and I just sent a few emails back and forth to change the accommodations.  I used a credit card that didn't charge foreign transaction fees to pay for the package, so that saved up to 3% versus a card that charged fees.

land tours won't have this kind of itinerary!

Pre-night at the Sheraton Singapore Towers:  I wanted to be close to the Newton Food Centre to get my eating on, and the Sheraton was just right next door.  I redeemed 6k Starpoints to get a reduced "Cash and Points" room rate and saved a couple of hundred dollars.  I had received a 30k Starpoints sign-up bonus from applying for a Starwood Preferred Guest credit card and had been redeeming the points for reduced nightly rates instead of free nights as the points were worth more using the "Cash and Points" option.

BBQ stingray, sambal leaves, sugarcane juice and Tiger beer

7 nights at the Conrad Maldives Rangali Island resort:  Room rates during this time of year (high season) were around $1200 a night plus 18% tax and service charge for the lowest "Beach Villa" category.  $10k for the week?  No, I did not pay that price.  Nor have I spent a lot of nights at Hilton hotels to earn points.  So how did I save?  I applied for the Hilton HHonors Reserve credit card that offered 2 free weekend night certificates as a bonus that was fortunately redeemable at this resort, as not all properties participate.  I also took advantage of the Daily Getaways program offered by the US Travel Association, selling discounted hotel and rental car point packages to promote traveling.  In fact, the deals are going on right now through June 20, 2014.  If you purchase a package with an American Express card, you also save 10%.  Last year, I bought 500k Hilton HHonors points for about half a cent each, redeeming 380k for a 5-night stay at the Conrad.  This, combined with the 2 free night certificates, made the stay cost around $262 a night...as the entire stay was on points or certificates, no taxes or service charges would be collected either!  I'd happily spend $262 a night versus $1200 plus tax to stay in a villa in paradise.  Die-hard hobbyists can get the price even lower (or free), but for my time and trouble, $262 was good enough.  Included with the Hilton HHonors Reserve credit card was complimentary HHonors Gold status, which qualified us to get free breakfast as well as afternoon tea and happy hour every day at the Conrad, saving a lot of money!

the patio of Beach Villa #206

Post-night at the Holiday Inn Express Clarke Quay in Singapore:  I got a 25% discount off prevailing rates using my travel agent ID, but everyone can collect a ton of extra IHG Rewards Club points each stay if you sign up for bonus point promotions that are listed on this blog.  With one stay, you could amass thousands of points to redeem later.  Some hotels have redemption promotions (PointBreaks) as low as 5000 points.  You can also buy large packages of points through Daily Getaways too.  I didn't use the points I had purchased from last year's Daily Getaways for a free night as my cash rate was cheaper than the points required for a free night at this property.  (besides, I am saving the points for a week long stay in an overwater bungalow at the InterContinental Bora Bora Thalasso Spa...hint hint...)

City tour in Seoul:  Our return journey had a 10-hour layover in South Korea and I found that Incheon Airport offered "free" city tours for travelers in transit.  (not exactly free as you had to pre-purchase lunch for $13 USD per person)  It was relatively easy to sign up using this website.  I booked the tour 6 weeks in advance.  What a great way to spend a layover!

Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul

That's pretty much the bulk of the trip savings - by taking advantage of credit card offers and collecting points and miles cheaply.  Note that I collected all these points and miles on my own and spent it on two people...if Kaleb had opened his own credit cards, we would have earned miles faster and saved more money as I wouldn't have to buy discounted miles.

PREPARATIONS

We were taking only one checked bag of clothing each for the entire trip since the rental car was small and we didn't want to have bags sitting in the back seat to tempt thieves while stopped at sights on the road.  It was a challenge to pack as there were places in NZ that were cold and we were hiking, but the Maldives was in the 90's every day.  We layered a lot of clothes, wore packable jackets, and brought small boxes of laundry detergent for washing.  The motels in New Zealand usually had a laundry room or a washer/dryer inside the unit itself, which was very convenient.

Another way we saved money was on meals during the trip.  New Zealand and the Maldives are very expensive when it comes to eating at restaurants.  We packed lightweight pouches of freeze-dried backpacking food (Mountain House brand, sometimes on sale at REI, and Costco may seasonally stock bulk boxes) and cup-of-noodles in a small checked bag (which, when emptied, made space for souvenirs!).  The food was perfect for quick lunches and dinners, paired with fresh fruits and veggies from the grocery store.  Everywhere we stayed had a large hot water kettle, which was essential.  This might not whet everyone's appetite but it worked well for us.  It was the first time I had freeze-dried food and it tasted great!  (and this is coming from a foodie)  Eating cup-of-noodles is comforting to me anyway.

The Maldives are known for diving, and on the Conrad Maldives FlyerTalk board I had been following, people were saying "If you love snorkeling, you'll love diving" and that diving was a must so I put away my fear of drowning and got my Open Water scuba certification.  Kaleb was already certified and I thought it would be nice if we dived together as buddies.  I did an Intro to Scuba Diving class a decade ago in Bora Bora, and though I enjoyed myself, I remembered thinking about how far down I was from the ocean surface and how terrible it would be if I ran out of air, etc. so I didn't put scuba certification high on my bucket list.  But after seeing pictures of Maldives diving sites and reassurances from my already-certified girlfriends Karen and Rachel that it'd be all right, I signed up for a Beginner Scuba course in January through Fish Eye Scuba, which consisted of classroom time, pool dives Jan 11th weekend, and open water dives Jan 25th weekend.  I was really lucky with the weather...no rain and every day was in the 70's!  I had no trouble with the classroom work.  The pool work was more difficult as I am not a good swimmer.  One of the requirements was to swim 200 yards without stopping.  I swam mostly on my back, ending up being the last person to finish, with a 70+ year old man finishing a minute ahead of me!  He swam over to me and said "I'm so glad I wasn't last!"  Gee thanks!  I could have done a 300 yard swim with mask and snorkel instead, but I wanted to see if I could do it without.  The instructor said that if he thought any of us would have problems, he'd make us do it with the snorkel, but I'm glad I didn't get that far behind.  The swimming was immediately followed by a 10-minute tread in the water.  The instructor asked if I needed a break before the tread and though I huffed and puffed, I said "Nope" since I didn't want to seem weak, haha.  Floating on your back was allowed while doing the tread so I did a mixture of both to pass the test.  During the pool exercises, I had problems with equalization (popping your ears when diving down).  I was the slowest of everyone to clear the ears.  While we were kneeling on the bottom of the 14-foot pool, I started to panic when I thought about being deep in water and how slow it was to suck air out of the regulator in my mouth.  But I convinced myself to be calm and breathed slowly.  Eventually I figured out that the air regulator I had wasn't the best as I got a different one for my open water dives and it was much easier to breathe.  Open water diving in January was not ideal as the lake we were in was 48F, which meant we could only do two dives a day due to hypothermia risk, despite wearing 7mm thick wet suits.  Friends were suggesting I finish the open water requirement in warm Maldives waters, but I didn't want to waste any vacation time plus the costs were high there.  I survived the freezing open water dives, plus I got better at equalizing my ears!  I'm glad I got certified, as I was able to see amazing things diving in the Maldives.  I'm even looking forward to future diving trips!

not thrilled to dive into a 48F lake
I am certified for life!
much warmer waters in the Maldives
a tiny critter you can't really see while snorkeling

I'll describe the trip in detail starting with the next blog entry.  (the Trip Index above gives you a hint of what we've experienced)  Until then, stay tuned!


***

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Previous post:  Sin City again: Marriott's Grand Chateau, Michael Mina and buffets galore - February 14-18, 2014