Thursday, February 6, 2014

Athabasca Glacier Ice Walk, Fairmont Lake Louise Gold, dinner at Fairview Dining Room - July 4, 2013


Trip Index

***

Today was the 4th of July but since we were in Canada, there would be no red, white and blue celebrations here.  The weather was holding up...beautiful blue skies!   We left early in the morning from the Crossing Resort to make it back to Athabasca Glacier for our 10am Icewalk Deluxe tour, booked on the Icewalk website.  The confirmation email contained clear directions on where to meet, what to bring, and what they can supply.  Since Kaleb and I already had hiking gear with us, we didn't need anything from them except the instep crampons (spikes that go under your boots), which made walking on the ice a lot easier.  There were participants that needed pretty much all the provided gear, such as hiking boots, rain jackets, gloves and hats.  If you aren't a hiker and you want to do the Icewalk, it's nice to know you don't need to specially pack for it.

I had originally planned to go on the Glacier Adventure tour, where you ride an Ice Explorer (a huge bus with monster wheels) to the middle of the glacier and take a look around.  This was also an activity that Sean and Catherine Lowe did on their one-on-one date on The Bachelor.  Fortunately I had read some forums that described the tour during peak hours:  people packed like sardines on the Ice Explorers (especially when tour buses arrived) on a slow journey for a brief visit on the glacier.  It was recommended to do the Icewalk instead, and I was glad to have taken that advice.

meeting location in the parking lot adjacent to the glacier; look for the wagon of gear

There were a lot of people today, so we broke into two groups.  I noticed that the people who needed all the Icewalk gear were in the other group; it was probably wise to separate the hikers from the non-hikers.  The "hiker" group took a different route, climbing steeper, more slippery mounds to get to the glacier.

we climbed straight over that hill in front of us
making our way through the rocky terrain

When we arrived at the foot of the glacier, the only way to get onto it was to cross over a glacial stream by stepping across a large wooden beam with a narrow pipe as a handhold.  The guide first hopped across unassisted using existing rocks exposed in the water, then positioned the beam and pipe laying on the other side with the help of another participant.  The footing was pretty stable; Kaleb and I didn't need to hold onto the pole.  The glacier changes over time, so if you did the walk today, the procedure to get onto it may be different than this.

crossing set-up
Kaleb casually walking across the beam

We were then advised to put on our crampons for the journey to the top of lower Athabasca Glacier.

strapping on the crampon

We scraped our way up the glacier, with the guide stopping now and then to explain the history of the glacier and provide interesting facts.

clear glacial ice
yummy
the mud that bubbles up from the glacier is an ingredient in facial masks

During the icewalk, we could see and hear the Ice Explorers making their way from the visitor's center towards the glacier.  I was glad not to be on those buses.  They moved pretty slow...it seemed to take half an hour to move a mile.  You only get to look around for a short while before returning to the visitor's center.  It's great that there is an option to visit the glacier up close if you have limited mobility or don't have time for a few hours' hike, but if you can handle walking on ice, I really recommend doing the icewalk.

Ice Explorers making their way on a steep hill
you and a hundred other people on the glacier
the parking lot way in the distance
pristine Upper Athabasca Glacier ahead of us (those little black dots ahead are people)
many little streams on the glacier
the smallest holes can be so blue

Listen to the glacial wind in the following 16-second video (if you cannot see it, click here):


We approached a crevasse and each one of us got to lean in carefully and take a look.  You could hear the melting waters rush from within...don't want to fall into one and get stuck beneath the glacier!

checking out the crevasse
Kaleb snapped this picture with one hand
water falling into another crevasse

We eventually make it all the way up Lower Athabasca Glacier and not allowed to venture into the upper part.  The group took a short break for self-provided lunch.  I tried some water from the glacial streams; the guide didn't say we couldn't drink it, but I figured it was low risk as not too many animals would be roaming up here.  I didn't experience any stomach problems, but then again, my stomach is iron-clad!

we made it!
sampling and taking some glacial water home...freezing yet refreshing!

On the way down, our guide showed us a pole that helped scientists keep track of the glacier's depth and position.  The glacier had been receding a lot in the past century, which could be attributed to global warming.

yes, this pole is very scientific

After the icewalk, we headed back to Lake Louise.  Along the way, there were cars stopped in the middle of the highway just to look at some wildlife...very dangerous, please don't do this when cars behind you are approaching at high speeds!

traffic hazard
Bow Lake, right off the highway

We arrived at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise for our second stay this week; as we had reservations for a Fairmont Gold Lakeview Room (not an e-upgrade), we headed towards the dedicated elevator to the 7th floor and checked in at the Fairmont Gold lounge.

view from the room...somewhat better than our 2nd floor room
we're getting on one of those tomorrow!
welcome letter and treats
comfortable king bed
men's valet
Nespresso coffee/Fairmont tea service
usable fridge with complimentary water
tub/shower combo
Le Labo
usual toiletries but with the addition of lip balm!
other toiletries
what's in the closet

We made it in time to enjoy some evening hors d'oeuvres in the Gold lounge.  I hadn't made dinner reservations in advance as I wasn't sure when we would arrive at the hotel; we ended up booking a table at the Fairview Dining Room tonight with the lounge concierge.

tasty small bites

When we arrived at the Fairview Dining Room at the appointed reservation time, we were told that our table was not ready and to wait a little bit.  We weren't in a hurry so that was okay, but I think the staff was used to discerning guests (perhaps especially from the Gold floor), so the hostess as well as the restaurant manager apologized profusely and seated us at one of the few choice tables right next to the window with a beautiful view of the lake.  It was a tad bit warm in the dining room and we were glad to feel the breeze coming through the open window.  We had the three course tasting menu, adding a wine pairing for Kaleb.  The meal was delicious!  Service was great too...for example, our server spilled a little bit of wine on the side of Kaleb's glass while pouring; she took it away and brought a new glass to pour into.

nice view
another nice view ;)
bread basket with salted and unsalted butter
amuse bouche
lychee sake martini
white asparagus and lobster veloute
juniper-cured British Columbia steelhead trout
Naganu pork tasting - pork belly and pork loin
sous-vide Alberta lamb sirloin over sweet pea and mint risotto
chocolate pate
maple glazed pineapple cake

After dinner, we strolled around the lake and saw an interesting visitor...a porcupine!   3-second Zoe video below (click here if you can't see it):


We also browsed the stores inside the chateau.  There was a cool rocks and gems store and a fun sweets shop if you want to buy candy or edible souvenirs.

Tomorrow will be a day full of activities, from canoeing to hiking, and even meeting Marcus, the Director of Pet Relations at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, up close and personal...stay tuned!


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