Sunday, August 31, 2014

Franz Josef Glacier - March 24-25, 2014


Trip Index

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Kaleb and I woke up Monday morning and found ducks frolicking next to the brook outside our motel room.

quack quack

After a quick breakfast, we checked out, hopped in the car and drove towards Franz Josef Glacier village.  We made a few stops, including vista points and a quick hike to Blue Pools.  Despite the fresh, clear water, there were mosquitoes which enjoyed a meal from me. :(

windy day on Lake Wanaka
weather starting to turn
bridge over Blue Pools
it'd be even bluer if it was sunny
super clear water
vista point off Haast Highway on the West Coast

We arrived at Punga Grove Motel in Franz Josef Glacier village, checked in and got a bottle of milk.

okay bed
toiletries
good sized bathroom
shower only
kitchen
coffee/tea/hot chocolate/cookie

We got a hold of Jen and Nate (remember our fellow hikers on the Routeburn Track?) and made plans to meet for dinner.  In the meantime, Kaleb and I roamed the small "main street" looking for souvenirs and found a nice selection at the West Coast Wildlife Centre.  He ended up buying some wool gloves and paua shell jewelry for his mom and sister.  I got some paua earrings and a necklace as well as a piece of cake in the cafe to tie me over until mealtime.

moist lemon pound cake

Afterwards, we headed over to The Landing to meet up with our new friends.  They had done some fun kayaking at a nearby lake as part of a combo tour; Jen's cousin Tyler worked there as a guide which was cool.  A heli-hike was part of their package, but it was postponed until tomorrow due to inclement weather.  They also had a voucher for a pizza dinner at The Landing.  I had seen signs advertising whitebait fish on the side of the highway coming here so when I saw whitebait fritters on the menu, I had to order it.  I couldn't really taste any fish, just egg, so it was disappointing, especially paying $38 for essentially a thin omelette over fries and slaw.  On the other hand, the pizzas were pretty good, so I would eat that on a return visit.

mussels (ok)
whitebait fritters (meh)
venison stew (decent)

After dinner, we found out that Tyler was performing a fire show in front of Chateau Franz hostel, so we returned to our motels to freshen up and met up again later that night.  Jen was waiting for a call from Tyler to know when the show would start, so to pass the time, we stopped by the Alice May restaurant for beer.  I was the last of us to enter the quaint establishment and right when I walked past the threshold, an elderly gentleman enjoying a laugh with his comrades got up from a table and somehow in the process, punched me in the stomach!  He didn't see I was coming up behind him as he swirled from his seat.  I was so surprised, all I could say to him was, "You punched me in the stomach!" and continued walking towards the bar.  It didn't hurt, just pushed some air out of my lungs.  He seemed in shock as he stood there digesting what just happened.

enjoying a pint

Of course, right when the beers were poured by the bartender, Tyler calls and everyone had to quickly down their libations.  We walked a few minutes over to the hostel to watch the festivities.  Fire dancing in this sleepy hamlet?  The demonstration was pretty cool, in fact, we could have played with the burning props if we wanted to, but I personally didn't want my hands reeking of kerosene.

32-second clip of Tyler and others showing off their skills: (click here if you cannot see the preview below)


some cool shots I caught with my point-and-shoot
even works in black-and-white

After the event, we bid good night and bon voyage to our new found friends and headed back to our motel.

The next day, we were scheduled for an Ice Explorer helicopter hike on Franz Josef Glacier, but the weather was not in our favor.  It was raining in the morning.  Our appointment was for 11:50am; the rain had stopped by then.  Still hopeful, we headed over to the Franz Josef Glacier Guides office on the main street but we saw a sign propped up outside saying "No glacier tours today". :(  We went in and received a receipt for tour cancellation due to weather.  New Zealand Fine Touring would refund the money to us as the glacier guide company hadn't been paid yet.  Since we had hiked on a glacier in Canada less than a year ago, we didn't feel like we missed out but it would have been our first helicopter ride.

For Plan B, we went on a few hikesLake Wombat, Franz Josef Glacier, and Terrace Walk.

Lake Wombat trailhead
relatively easy stroll
surreal environment
blue mushrooms!  bet they're poisonous
after walking through the mysterious forest, Lake Wombat was almost a let-down!
approaching Franz Josef Glacier - too cloudy for helicopters to fly

35-second vid of the Franz Josef Glacier area: (click here if you cannot see the preview below)


look how far the glacier has retreated since 2008
glacier even more retreated in 2014
waterfalls
Terrace Walk trail, easy
mysterious
we didn't know about this, had to turn back
bridge connecting village to the main highway

We drove back to the motel, then walked to the grocery store to grab something for dinner.

our rental was a Corolla hatchback...which one is ours????
tonight's dinner, yum yum

Our visit to New Zealand was getting close to the end. :(  Tomorrow, we drive to Greymouth and hop on the Tranz Alpine train back to Christchurch...stay tuned!

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