Where in the world is Kat Kong?: June 2012

Saturday, June 30, 2012

Quito, the Equatorial Line, dinner at Carmine - June 16, 2012

Trip Index

The next morning, we slept in as long as we could, then headed down to the "basement floor" for a buffet breakfast at the Bistro Latino. I forgot to mention that when guests ride the elevator up to their rooms, the floor buttons can only be pressed immediately after you touch your room card on a sensor to unlock the buttons. I overheard some fellow cruisemates talking about arriving at the hotel at 2am all weary and then had to deal with the elevator since no one told them how to operate it. Plus, the card sensor (a large black circle) was only located on the right hand side control panel (as both sides have buttons) and no signage as far as I could tell.

The buffet had all the usual dishes like bacon, sausage, scrambled eggs, cold cuts, smoked salmon, fruit, cereal, yogurt, toast, pastries and a chef available to cook omelettes and fried eggs to order. Coffee and tea were served by the wait staff. Today, we had good service, and hot beverages were poured quickly. We met the first of our cruisemates, Ron and his daughter Naomi, who were sitting next to us. Ron had also booked last-minute, and told me that he put a cabin on hold but released it when a more desirable cabin had surfaced. Perhaps he was the one I was playing hide-and-seek with that day!

Kaleb and I were one of the last to finish breakfast, and we headed to the lobby close to 9am. There were so many beautiful rose arrangements scattered throughout, not surprising as Ecuador is a major exporter. I couldn't resist smelling all the large heads of petals, so fragrant! It's interesting to look at this picture and recognize fellow cruisers since when I took it, I didn't know anyone.

Then we got the go-ahead to board the tour buses. Each bus was designated with a colored "Celebrity Xpedition" sign in the front window, and ours was the "green bus", though it looked more yellow than green, and to make it more confusing, there was a "yellow bus" as well. Passengers on both buses would get confused between the yellow and yellow-green over the course of the day, and it was a running joke.

The weather was perfect. In the green bus, we had Deanna as our tour guide, Jorge the bus driver and Ivan the security guard, who did not look armed. Bottled water was passed around the bus, and there was more available stacked behind the driver's seat. We were also given little white Celebrity Xpedition stickers to place on our person so that the tour guides could easily identify the group. While we were on the road, Deanna would share facts about Quito, what we would be doing for the day, etc. She reminded everyone about the risks of pickpocketing in touristy areas like Old Town (all common sense) and advised one of our cruisemates to remove her overly large gold pendant. Ladies, please leave precious jewelry at home, or if you must bring some, put it in your room safe. Our first stop was to the Basilica del Voto Nacional. We did not get to go inside, but we were given fifteen minutes to roam the grounds. The exterior architecture was unique in the fact that animals were used in place of the usual gargoyles.

We then were led across the street to where people were selling scarves and paintings. Someone mentioned on Cruise Critic that the scarves here were better quality for the price than any other place on the tour, and I also agree, as the colors were bright and vibrant. The going rate was two scarves for $5, but I was able to buy three for $7, and if you wanted four, you could offer $8.

Deanna explaining about the arts and crafts

We then got back on the bus, and headed to "Old Town". There, Deanna led us into a building as an example of Spanish architecture (which was converted to a mall). We also visited the Plaza de la Independencia and the exterior of the Presidential Palace, inside La Compania church (no pictures allowed, most people used the free restroom facilities here), and inside the convent of San Francisco.

At this point, people were getting hungry, and fortunately it was time for lunch. While we were waiting for the tour buses to arrive, I observed the locals buying a meal for 50 cents: potatoes and sausages topped with an onion mixture, cooked in a pail on a street corner.

Lunch was in a restaurant called Theatrum on the second floor of the Sucre National Theater. No elevators; you climbed a flight of stairs to access the restaurant. It was buffet-style Ecuadorian food. Everything was labeled so you knew what you were eating. (or as well as the translation could tell you) There were large communal tables set up on the inside of the restaurant, but if you go out the doors on the left side of the main dining room, you can be seated outside (shaded area) with smaller tables for four. Kaleb and I opted to sit outside as it felt airy and you can watch the people walking by. (there was blaring pop music coming from a store across the street, so if you don't enjoy Top 40 hits, you may want to stay inside) Guests sitting indoors were treated to a performance by an opera singer, who was very good. If you liked his work, his CD was being sold at the front of the restaurant. The restrooms were interestingly signed.

the fried plantain chips were so good

this looked good, but I couldn't eat it since I'm allergic to corn

main entrees and side dishes

dessert

pasta was great, meat was meh (chicken was so dry), the plantain and potato cakes were good

After lunch, you could choose to head back to the hotel, or go to the Equatorial Line at Mitad del Mundo, which was 45 minutes away. Many of us continued with the tour. During part of the bus ride, we learned more facts about Quito such as the average monthly pay being around $300!

When we arrived at Mitad del Mundo, we were given admission tickets to the museum and were instructed to meet later in the afternoon at a different location to board the buses back home. (near some pink buildings where restroom facilities were also located) We were free to roam for about an hour...everyone pretty much took pictures standing on the Equator (though the painted line is inaccurate) then perused the museum, where you could go to the top of the building and look around, plus there were exhibits of local culture and peoples. Clouds were starting to roll in. Kaleb and I hopped onto the bus just as the rain started. At the pre-appointed meeting time, we were still missing one family, so Ivan the security guard grabbed a few umbrellas and went in search of them. He found them at a different set of pink buildings, oops! Ivan only had enough umbrellas for the family, so he was soaked to the bone, but he had a smile on his face...what service. :)

at the Equator

meet behind these bathrooms!

The rain stopped once we drove closer to Quito. When we returned to the hotel, we had an hour and a half to relax and freshen up before we were to board the buses again to take us to tonight's dinner at Carmine Restaurant. Deanna had told us that we didn't need to worry about dressing up as the restaurant was booked exclusively for Celebrity. Carmine was located about 10 minutes away from the Marriott. We disembarked from the bus, then walked through an outer doorway (where there were bouncers/bodyguards posted) and down a path that led to the restaurant, which used to be a former president's residence. There was a big Celebrity Xpedition welcome sign set up at the entrance. The house was beautiful, painted white with windows galore, roses everywhere (even 3 foot long ones) and ivy growing on the exterior. The hostess asked if we wanted to sit inside or outside, and since the night wasn't too cold, plus there were plenty of gas heaters set up on the patio, we opted to sit outside. I had low expectations for the meal as it was listed as "Italian" on the itinerary; I had visions of a buffet with spaghetti, garlic bread, etc. Boy, was I wrong, and I'm glad I was...it was one of the best meals of the trip, though it would have disappointed the folks who did want lasagna and spaghetti.

welcome juice was given at arrival; one glass of wine also included

assorted breads; I overheard one table saying they couldn't stop eating it because it was so good

the bocconcini, delicious

tiradito, very yum

sea bass was the catch of the day, cooked to perfection

moist chicken oporto

ubiquitous fork-and-knife shot

tasty profiteroles

"frozen cappuccino" = tiramisu, very delicious, better than the profiteroles

we were given a survey to fill out

The restrooms in the restaurant were full baths, since this was formerly a home. There were three; one on the ground floor, and two upstairs. The indoor seating was very elegant and I heard someone playing piano upstairs. (it may have been one of the cruisemates) On the bus ride home after dinner, we were reminded that by 9pm, to take our unlocked checked luggage down to the library next to the Xpedition desk as they would be inspected by the Galapagos agricultural authorities the following morning. We would not see the bags again until we boarded the Xpedition. The good thing was that since we were flying charter, there were no 3.5 oz/100ml restrictions on liquids, making packing the carry-on easier, since you still needed to use toiletries the next morning. Also, when you brought the bags to the library, they were locked with a zip tie, so the contents would be "safe". (good to pack some nail clippers on the outside of the bag to cut them off later; nail clippers aren't supposed to be carried on, though they never found the pair in my backpack. ;) )

We're finally going to be off to the Galapagos!!!

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Friday, June 29, 2012

Planning the trip and getting to Ecuador - June 14-15, 2012

Trip Index

At the end of the workday on June 14, I activated my out-of-office email replies and shut down my computer to start the beginning of my long (well, not so long since I booked it a few months ago) anticipated trip to the Galapagos to celebrate my 40th birthday. I had already celebrated ahead of time with my girlfriends on the Star Princess a month ago, but this time around, it would just be me and Kaleb. :)

How did I decide on what to do for my 40th birthday? I wanted to go somewhere special for this major milestone. Kaleb and I had considered various travel destinations last year and Galapagos was one of the places we both wanted to visit. But why this particular cruise ship and not others? I had wanted to sail on Celebrity Xpedition ever since it started service to the Galapagos islands many years ago. I knew of smaller yachts and ships that carried 16 passengers, a bit more intimate than 90+ on the Xpedition, but the price difference was not much. With everything that was included with Celebrity, it was a great value. You could choose to go with the 7-night cruise, the 10- or 11-day cruisetour which included pre- and post-cruise nights in Quito, or the 13-day, which adds on Machu Picchu. Since it was March of this year when I started planning the trip, many of the June and July sailings were sold out or had one or two cabins left from cancellations. I eventually settled on the lowest priced cabin that was available, which was the June 17th sailing on the "A" itinerary, with my birthday falling on the week. I learned in the forums on Cruise Critic about the switch to "A" and "B" itineraries due to government regulation. As I wasn't set a specific itinerary, "A" was fine with me. The forums were very helpful and I learned a lot about what to pack, what to expect, etc., all of which will be mentioned throughout the blog to help future Xpedition cruisers plan their trips. :)

I chose the 10-day cruisetour as Celebrity takes care of everything from the time you land in Quito to when you depart for home, plus it included the airfare from Quito to Baltra where the cruise embarks. I am usually an avid planner (if you hadn't guessed from all of the trips I've taken), but I decided this time why not let someone else plan for a change?

Booking the cruise was a game of hide and seek. I had researched what cabins were available on what dates, and after conferring with Kaleb on our work schedules, I was ready to book June 17th. When I went back into the Celebrity reservation database, the Ocean View cabin I wanted (XO category) disappeared! What were the odds that someone else was booking it exactly at the same time that I was? I hoped that it would release 24 hours later, but it didn't. There was a suite available, but it was at a much higher price. I took my chances and waited another 24 hours. It came back! I snagged it right away. It was a "guarantee" cabin, so I did not know what room I would be in until a few weeks later, when our cabin was upgraded to Deluxe (XD), woohoo!

Airfare was booked with United award miles, going from Phoenix via Houston to Quito. The cruisetour included airport transfers, but there was no way to input my flight information on Celebrity's website, so I had to call the Xpedition desk, whose direct number is 866-973-8466.

What to pack? I had compiled a list of items from researching on Cruise Critic, and everything was put to good use (I may have forgotten some things; this list is subject to correction):

Passport!
Some cash - I ended up using about $100 buying souvenirs and snacks in town...convenient that Ecuador uses the US dollar and coins (and also has its own coinage)
Hiking shoes/tennis shoes you don't mind getting dirty - makes it easier on some of the walks than wearing water shoes
Water shoes like Keens with toe protection - lots of opportunities to stub your toe
Comfy pair of shoes for evenings
Several pairs of socks
Brimmed hat - the sun is very strong
Sunglasses
Three swimsuits - to ensure that at least one is dry if you will be snorkeling every opportunity
Three long sleeve shirts, preferably made of quick-dry sunblock material - to protect from the sun
Two pairs of long hiking pants (ones that zip off to become shorts are handy) - at least on one of the excursions, you'd wish you had long pants, even in the heat!
A few short sleeve tops - to "clean up" for dinner
For women - a pair of capris and a skirt/sundress to mix up for evenings
For men - a couple of pairs of shorts or long pants for evenings
Long pants/jeans for tour days in Quito
Undergarments - I brought enough not to do laundry
Pajamas
Rain gear/umbrella - though I never used it (Murphy's Law)
Dive skins - helped a lot when snorkeling on the west side of the islands, order 2 sizes larger for a more comfortable fit...I ordered one size larger and it fit, but was very snug with a bathing suit underneath.
Snorkel and mask - especially if you require prescription lenses and also the equipment on Xpedition may not fit you well
Power strip - there was only one usable outlet; if you have a lot of electronics, this adapter helps a lot as it has USB outlets for Kindle/iPod while you can charge your batteries with the plugs
Clothesline or rope/string - to dry items next to the window
Day pack/fanny pack to carry water and personal effects
Bug spray - there were wasps and invisible biting insects which found my skin...I bought "Buggspray" off of eBay
Neutral colored clothing - a few of the landings had wasps that loved bright colors
Regular camera and charger - point-and-shoot or SLR
Underwater camera, camera float and charger - worth the investment to get one that can shoot HD video. I have a Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS3, but there are cheaper and newer versions out there like the TS20. I bought the Vivitar float based on reviews...we've tested it in the ocean; it won't float your camera to the top, but it keeps it from falling straight down so you have time to catch it.
Extra camera batteries - though I was always able to charge batteries between excursions
Laptop or tablet to download your pictures just in case
Kindle, iPod and charger
High SPF sunscreen and lip balm - I still tanned through 100 SPF!
Toiletries - the hotel and cruise ship do provide shampoo/conditioner/lotion/Q-tips/cotton balls/shower cap
Medications if needed
Your preferred seasickness remedy if you are susceptible - the boat can get rocky; I observed some people taking pills, put patches behind their ears (someone suggested only putting 1/2 a patch on), or wearing wristbands

There is also a packing list (men-focused) provided by sealord on Cruise Critic.

If you forgot to pack an item of excursion clothing, reasonably priced gear was available at the Xpedition gift shop; hats and shirts could also be bought in Baltra. Other thoughts (female-oriented): I never wanted for a bathing suit cover-up. I also hardly used any makeup during the cruise. Hair elastic bands were helpful to tie up long hair. Try to keep jewelry to a minimum so you don't have to worry about it.

I bought a 30" rolling duffel to save on weight versus a roller board. The drop-bottom compartment was handy for all the shoes. I used packing cubes to keep clothes from swimming around in the cavernous space. After everything was packed, the duffel ended up at 35 lbs, leaving plenty of weight for souvenirs. My backpack was around 15 lbs. You are allowed 44 lbs check-in on the flight from Quito to Baltra, and 17 lbs carry-on, though I'm sure that if you are off by a few pounds, it wouldn't be a problem as none of our carry-ons were weighed at the airport. Even though the duffel didn't provide "hard protection" like a roller board, in the end, nothing was damaged as I took care to put my toiletries and other delicate items in the center of the bag so that it would be cushioned by the clothing around and on top of it.

Now where was I? After I left work on June 14, I went home to get my luggage (didn't want my stuff to cook in the summer heat inside the trunk), then headed to the airport for my USAir flight to Phoenix. I ended up cutting it too close and had no choice but to park my car in the covered garage versus the economy lot to save time, meaning I was going to have a hefty parking bill when I got back. There was a short line to check in my duffel (no fee due to my Premier Gold status translating to Star Alliance Gold), and the security line was also short, though that meant I had to go through the "nude-o-scope". I was able to board in Zone 1 for USAir flights with Star Alliance Gold status. As soon as I got to my row, I heard someone say "Kathy???" What luck to run into an old work colleague of mine, Thu, who had transferred to the company's Phoenix site many years ago, and she happened to be sitting in the row behind me! It's amazing how many times I've run into friends on flights. It was nice to be able to catch up with her. In Phoenix, I retrieved my luggage and Kaleb picked me up, only to have to return to the airport 10 hours later for our flight to Quito.

Friday morning, we headed back to the airport, parked the car in the East Economy garage and took the shuttle bus to Terminal 2 for our United flight to Quito. Bags were checked in (Kaleb's weighed 37 pounds), security line wasn't too long and we didn't have to go through the X-ray booth. Funny incident: the elderly man in front of us was asked by a TSA agent if he had anything in his pockets, and he said no, but the agent asked again, and the man reluctantly took out his wallet. He zipped it protectively in the front pocket of his carry-on bag, then went through the metal detector. When his bag popped out of the X-ray exit, first thing he did was immediately open the pocket to check if the wallet was still there. As if it was going to get stolen inside the X-ray machine! We smiled and the guy behind us laughed.

I selected seats 20D and 20E in advance, a row of only 2 seats, in a 3-3 configured 737. Even though the seats are purported to not recline, I liked them because we didn't have to worry about the third person or the person in front reclining into my lap. The seats did recline a couple of inches, though I don't normally recline all the way back in the first place. This plane provided power outlets in each row, useful for plugging in electronics to enjoy during the flight. It was also equipped with individual DirecTV, so you could swipe your credit card to watch satellite programming for $7.99. Coincidentally, the in-flight magazine main story was about Ecuador! I read about some of the sights on the Quito tour the next day.

Arriving in Houston, we had an hour to kill before boarding the next flight. Premier Gold status provided complimentary access to the United Club when flying internationally, so we went there to grab some refreshments and relax.

some snacks

We had the same seats on the flight to Quito, and the plane also had DirecTV and power outlets. United feeds the people in coach on international flights, so we were treated to a "snack", which consisted of a choice of either beef burrito or chicken sandwich, salad, and a packaged brownie for dessert.

doesn't that look delectable?

Halfway to Quito, the flight attendant handed out forms for immigration and customs. When we arrived in Quito, we went through passport control with no problems. Once we retrieved our luggage, we went through customs. An agent pressed a button which lighted green or red to randomly select people for additional screening. I was lucky to get the red light, and all my bags had to be screened through an X-ray machine, but at least they didn't see anything suspicious to warrant a hand search. Exiting from customs, Fatima was waiting with a Celebrity sign, and asked our names to check off a list. We handed our luggage and accompanying claim checks to the porter, who loaded it onto a cart. After collecting a few more guests, we were herded to the terminal exit, where airport security checked that all luggage matched the claim checks before letting us out. Someone lost their claim check, so he had to show his passport to claim his bag. We walked across the parking lot to a waiting bus that was already half full with guests who had come off a flight from Miami. Bottled water was distributed to everyone. During the 20 minute ride to the JW Marriott, Fatima discussed the high altitude of Quito (9000 feet) and the importance of drinking water to counteract the dehydration, advised not to drink alcohol the first day, checking into the hotel, luggage delivery to the room, when to meet for the tour the next day, breakfast hours, and other useful details. Upon arrival, we were greeted with a welcome juice beverage. The Celebrity "hospitality desk" was situated to the left of the hotel entrance, marked by Celebrity Xpedition signage. Room keys were being distributed from that area and not at the front desk. If you are a Marriott Rewards member, you'd need to go to the front desk to give them your number so that you can get credit for the stay. (Fellow cruisemate Steve adds that gold and higher elites get perks such as free internet, access to the 9th floor lounge with made-to-order tacos, sushi and other interesting finger foods, plus free wine, beer and soft drinks.) We were also given a sheet of paper that described the itinerary for the pre-cruise days as well as an advertisement to upgrade to "business class" on the flight to Baltra. (I found out later from fellow cruisemate Donna that the cost to upgrade was around $220 roundtrip. The seats are wider and you get a second choice for breakfast entree.)

this is where we find out that 20kg (44 lbs) is the weight limit

Our room was on the 4th floor. It was clean and large, with all the usual amenities.

clean duvets and sheets

flat screen TV that we never turned on

separate toilet area, but the door was frosted glass and swung like a shower...

a big tub for those who like to soak

two bottles of still water were provided each night

coffee and tea service

one robe and one pair of new slippers

not much view to brag about

That night, I had a slight headache which I always get when going suddenly to high altitude, but thankfully it went away the next morning. Kaleb had no problems with altitude. After showering off the day's travels, we went straight to bed to rest up for the next day's activities. No sleeping in for the next 12 days, but it was all worth it, as you will find out soon...

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