Friday, January 31, 2014

Jasper National Park and Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge - July 2, 2013


Trip Index

***

Kaleb and I left the Fairmont Banff Springs hotel and stopped by Nesters Market in town to pick up some food (we had found the store while walking around town yesterday).  Then it was off to Jasper via the Icefields Parkway (aka Highway 93).  The drive from Banff to the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge took about four hours.  Good thing the car came with complimentary satellite radio!  The drive was very picturesque...can't get tired of big blue skies, rocks and trees.  If you looked carefully, you could see waterfalls tucked in the mountainside.  We did not stop anywhere along the way as we were to drive back the next day and go on hikes.  The weather started to turn cloudy as we approached the lodge.

Check-in was easy and we were given real metal keys to our room.  No e-upgrade this time; I had requested an upgrade to the 1 bedroom "Athabasca Cottage" but was obviously unsuccessful.

The lodge was more rustic than the hotels we had been staying at, but relatively clean and comfortable.  The property was set up with a bunch of different cabins and cottages scattered around Lac Beauvert.  Our room was part of a larger cabin; there was an interior door that could be opened to form connecting rooms.  Our room was in the back, so no view of the lake.  The closest parking area to the cabin was a short walk away so we briefly stopped the car on the one-way lane to unload our bags, then parked.

our part of the cabin
wood-burning fireplace, but not cold enough to use
comfy bed
items in the closet
tub/shower combo

There was no air conditioning and only a couple of small windows could be opened; we felt a bit warm due to the humidity in the air, as a storm was threatening to arrive.  No doubt the room would get very hot if temperatures were higher than 75F.  There was a small fan in the closet just in case.

We got back in the car and went exploring.  Originally we were set on visiting Maligne Lake as the Canadian Rockies Trail Guide described a pretty hike, but it was an hour's drive away and the clouds were getting darker.  We decided to stay close by and went to Maligne Canyon.  It started out as a pretty hike with wildflowers abound; however, the rain started up after we crossed First Bridge.  We weren't equipped for a wet hike so we headed back to the trailhead parking lot.

Maligne River
red clover
blue-eyed grass

We drove back towards the lodge, then decided to stop by Lake Annette.  The water wasn't as blue-green due to the cloudy skies, but it was a very peaceful sight.


Back at the lodge, we walked around the property and the lake, then dropped by Cavell's Restaurant for a light dinner, which was okay.  They had a patio to take advantage of the lake view, but today wasn't a good day for al fresco dining!  I had read that the Japanese restaurant on-site (Oka Sushi) was good and called to set up reservations ahead of time, but none were available.

on Lac Beauvert
colorful Adirondack chairs outside the main lodge
a romantic dinner set up on the lake - risky business considering the weather...
variety of breads with butter and roasted pepper dip
salad with microgreens
carpaccio
vegetable risotto
sorbet trio
hot toddy
chocolates accompanied the bill

It started to pour heavily while we were having dinner; the weather cleared when we finished.

raining cats and dogs outside
a break in the weather
the aftermath - hopefully no one actually reserved this for tonight

We made it back to our cabin just before it started to pour again.

3-second Zoe video of the storm below:


After the rain had stopped, we walked around the property to enjoy the freshness.

a herd of eight deer grazed right through the lodge grounds
the sun seemed to set for hours
still not dark outside

We only had one night here at the lodge...in retrospect, I would have preferred two, as we didn't have any time to hike extensively in the area.  If the weather is good, and as the sun sets so late here, a lot of exploring could be done here in a day.

Tomorrow, we check out of the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge and drive back onto the Icefields Parkway for some hiking adventures!  Hopefully it won't rain...


***

If you've missed reading any entries for this trip, refer to the Trip Index at the top of this page.  You can also sign up for blog updates direct to your inbox here!


Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Gold lounge breakfast, afternoon tea at Rundle Lounge, town of Banff on Canada Day - July 1, 2013


Trip Index

***

Today was Canada Day, celebrating Canada's "birthday".  There were flags and red and white balloons all over the hotel property.  This morning, we enjoyed the complimentary breakfast in the Gold lounge.  A wide assortment of hot and cold items were available.

hot items
cold selections; appreciated the little bowls of cut strawberries with whipped cream nearby
yummy breakfast

Kaleb and I toured a bit around the Banff Springs Hotel, including the tennis club, horse corral, and the large halls and public rooms.  (We stumbled into not-so-public rooms too, but no pics! :) )  There were indoor and outdoor pools available for hotel guests.  The Willow Stream Spa had great reviews, but there was no time for any services.  I read there was a 5-pin bowling alley on-site, but we did not get around to checking it out.  There was even a "hotel heritage tour" offered by the hotel ambassador, free for guests ($15 CAD for non-guests), but it was held from 3-4pm on Tuesdays through Saturdays; our stay was Sunday and Monday night, and we were departing for Jasper Tuesday morning. :(

get your game on
horseback riding available
one of the grand halls
patio being set up for Canada Day events

For lunch, we had afternoon tea reservations in the Rundle Lounge for 12:45pm on OpenTable (another 100 points!).  The meal was all right; it was definitely not as grand as the afternoon tea we had at Claridge's in London (read about it here).  But the view was excellent!

table with a view (and watched a lady getting sunburned on the patio below)
jars of loose leaf tea on a trolley
tea timer
somehow tea still got through the filter
scone with jam and cream was delicious but the strawberries seemed to have been cut hours ago
tower of the usual treats

Afterwards, Kaleb and I walked about 15 minutes down Spray Avenue to the town of Banff (or for a $2 CAD fare, you could take a public bus which comes around every 40 minutes).  The sun was blazing...definitely needed sunscreen today!  There were many souvenir shops and eateries.  The sidewalks were jam-packed with tourists; it may have been more crowded due to Canada Day.  Central Park was filled with booths selling arts and crafts, along with carnival-type attractions.  There were also two booths serving up free "birthday" cake for Canada Day.

crowded Banff sidewalks
booths in the park

Instead of walking back up Spray Avenue to return to the hotel, we decided to do the Bow River Trail, which had a lot of shade to stay cool.  It meandered along the bank of the Bow River.  There were benches here and there if you wanted to take a break and stare at the fast-moving river.  The trail ended at the top of Bow Falls.

seemingly calm, but there are warning signs for the falls ahead if you're in the water

3-second Zoe video of the swift waters (I wouldn't want to fall into that):


rainbow in the mist

We returned in time to enjoy the evening hors d'oeuvres in the Fairmont Gold lounge.  The selections were so filling that we ended up cancelling our dinner reservations at Castello, the hotel's Italian restaurant, which had very good reviews.  Interestingly, spending the money to upgrade to the Fairmont Gold floor helped keep our costs down.

tasty bites including pork belly
local ale

Tonight was our last night in the historic Banff Springs hotel.

The next morning, we had breakfast in the lounge.  It was nice to see that some of the offerings changed a bit from yesterday.  I liked that everything was served in small quantities.  The little dishes were replenished often.

I'm happy to have strawberries again!
sausage and pancakes today
baked goods

After breakfast, we packed up and set out onto the Icefields Parkway towards Jasper National Park...stay tuned!

***

If you've missed reading any entries for this trip, refer to the Trip Index at the top of this page.  You can also sign up for blog updates direct to your inbox here!

If you cannot see any of the videos (if you got this update via email), click here to access the blog online.



Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Sunday brunch at Banff Springs, upgrade to Fairmont Gold floor, hiking, fondue dinner - June 30, 2013


Trip Index

***

We left Lake Louise around 10am in order to make our 11am Sunday brunch reservation at Bow Valley Grill in the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel.  The drive to Banff took about 40 minutes, going through town to reach the hotel, our home for the next two nights.  Arriving at the front of the hotel, the valet attendant asked for the name on the reservation and looked it up on his clipboard.  He told us that we were staying on the Fairmont Gold floor...upgraded from our standard room!  I had forgotten all about my signing up for the "e-Standby Upgrade" option that was included in the room confirmation email.  If you click on the link in the email, a list of possible upgrade rooms plus price per night are presented.  You can sign up for none or as many as you want, and if you get the upgrade, you agree to pay the per-night price listed.  You won't know until you check in whether you got the upgrade or not.  I decided to try my chances at upgrading to a Fairmont Gold Mountain View room for $47 CAD a night.  It seemed a reasonable price as it included breakfast and evening hors d'oeuvres in the Gold lounge, in addition to a nicer view.  Now we know we got it!

A bell-lady unloaded our bags from the trunk onto her cart and led us into the bowels of the hotel towards the elevators to take us to the Fairmont Gold private check-in desk on the 5th floor.

"regular" check-in area
hotel lobby area

We were attended by Alex, the Fairmont Gold manager.  He apologized that our room was not yet ready, and took down my email address so he could send a message when it was available (as we didn't have cell service in Canada).  We were going to brunch anyway so it wasn't a big deal, plus we arrived way before official check-in time to begin with.

I had checked Yelp to find good eats in the area; the Bow Valley Grill Sunday brunch was recommended by many.  I made reservations on OpenTable, which earned 100 points. (collect 2000 points to get a $20 OpenTable dining cheque good at any OpenTable restaurant)  When we arrived at the restaurant, there was a group of people standing around, waiting to get in.  It turned out that the restaurant closes for half an hour between breakfast and Sunday brunch.  In the meantime, Kaleb and I headed outside to enjoy the mountain views.

spectacular!

We returned a little bit after 11am, hoping the waiting area was clear.  A line had formed, starting on one side of the host podium and wrapping around the front waiting room.  It wasn't the best way to queue up, as people were coming up a hallway that led dead center to the podium, and not everyone noticed there was a line.  One person complained loudly to a group who unknowingly cut directly to the front.  Heated words were exchanged, and eventually someone else in line exclaimed, "They're not going to run out of food!"

The buffet brunch had a lot of selection, considering we were in the middle of the wilderness.  There were breakfast foods as well as carved meat stations.  Most of it was displayed in small quantities, replenished often so the food stayed fresher than sitting in a big stainless steel pan.  I would recommend this brunch if you want a little bit of everything.  If you can get a table next to the windows, then you can also enjoy a nice view.

cold salad station
side dishes
delectable desserts

After our meal, I checked my email using the free wi-fi offered to Fairmont President's Club members (enroll here for complimentary membership - get lots of benefits including free local calls and discounts) and there was a message informing us that our room was ready...perfect timing!  We returned to the 5th floor where Alex had our keys ready and led us to a quiet corner room at the end of the hall.  Our bags had already been delivered.  It was a very comfortable room equipped with many amenities including welcome treats and a shower with jets coming out of the wall.

welcome letter and cookies
comfy bed with pillow menu
pillow options (which I did not partake in)
another welcome gift
accompanying note
chocolate covered almonds, Werther's, and cookies
French press coffee and tea service
contemporary bathroom
"car wash" shower
the usual Rose 31 toiletries
walk-in closet including umbrella, slippers, and hiking sticks
view from our room

After freshening up, we went out for a little hike to Bow Falls, not too far from the hotel, that was listed in the Canadian Rockies Trail Guide.  Due to the torrential rain received over the past week, the falls were at over-full capacity, inundating the boulders at the bottom.  There was orange plastic fencing set up to try to keep tourists away from the swift-moving water at the shore of the river.  (key word here is "try")  We weren't stopped from getting closer but we did hurry away when we saw a park ranger's truck arriving.

took the Waldhaus stairway to get down to the falls
Bow Falls
Spray River Bridge

We crossed over the Spray River Bridge to get another angle of the falls.  The golf course nearby looked very nice. 

Bow Falls from downriver
Fairmont's golf course

The weather was getting warmer so we headed back to the hotel to change and also to select another trail from the guide.

bridge out...but didn't stop us from exploring
on the quarry loop trail
stones from this quarry were used to build the hotel
a rebellious tree
a bridge! let's make our way down there...
getting closer
made it!
simply magnificent!

3 second Zoe video of the scenery below:

Making our way back to the hotel, we ran into a resident of the forest seeking relief from the hot sun.  The stag was huffing and puffing on the grass and didn't run away when we passed by.

strange sight

We made it back to the room in time to enjoy the complimentary evening hors d'oeuvres in the Gold lounge (served from 5-7pm).  This was a well-attended event.  Alcoholic beverages were self-serve via "honor bar" - guests filled out a form with room number and total number of beverages consumed.  We had dinner reservations at the Waldhaus restaurant so this was our "appetizer" course.

entering the lounge with inviting fireplace
beverages and honor forms
cheeses, cured meats and canapes
tasty skewers and small bites

We headed back out and down the stairs again to the Waldhaus Restaurant for our 7pm reservation, selected from reading reviews on Yelp.   (reservations can be made on OpenTable for another 100 points)  The cuisine is Alpine-inspired, with fondue being a specialty.

Waldhaus restaurant
heed the warning signs on the stairs
stein of beer!

As we were already filled up from appetizers, for dinner, we shared the cheese fondue appetizer with charcuterie board and chocolate fondue for dessert.

charcuterie board
alpine fondue (melted Swiss cheese with cured meats)
rich chocolate fondue

The fondue was pretty tasty.  The restaurant also had a pub with an outdoor patio.  Next time, I would just eat in the pub as the cheese fondue was also offered there, along with reasonably priced dishes like sandwiches, schnitzel, and bar food.

After dinner, we walked around the grounds.  It certainly didn't look like it was 9:30pm!

it'd be dark back home at this time


Tomorrow, we celebrate Canada Day - enjoying afternoon tea and the town of Banff...stay tuned!

***

If you've missed reading any entries for this trip, refer to the Trip Index at the top of this page.  You can also sign up for blog updates direct to your inbox here!