I got a great price on a one-way American Airlines economy ticket to Montreal, though it was a two-stop red-eye flight. Part of my ticket was covered by a $250 AA purchase credit, included in the signup bonus on the
Citibank AA Business Mastercard at that time. I also got a great fare on a United Airlines one-way return ticket, also requiring two stops, and I was able to finally use some of the money sitting in my United TravelBank from past airline credit redemptions (TravelBank now no longer available).
I found a cute little studio located in
Old Port on Airbnb - so affordable, plus I had a $25 off coupon. The host offered to pick us up from the airport at a price of $40 CAD. I read online about the 747 airport bus ($10 CAD fare per person) and decided to do that so we could experience public transportation. If we had a lot of luggage, I would have taken the host's offer.
Other than air and lodging, we did not make any other plans until we got to Montreal.
The flights leading up to meeting Denise in New York (JFK) early Sunday morning were uneventful. I did not get much sleep on the red-eye portion.
After arriving in Montreal airport (YUL) and clearing immigration, we found the 747 bus ticket kiosk outside arrivals. (I saw at least another one, in case there was a line) It wasn't hard to use, as long as you were patient during the credit card insertion phase. (just leave the card in until it is accepted) Denise and I followed signs towards the 747 bus stop, where we waited awhile in the cold. Eventually the bus came and we were off!
It was convenient that the next stop would be announced/displayed at the front of the bus. Bus stops were easy to find on the street.
It was a 10 minute walk from our stop to the Airbnb location, a slight uphill with lots of cracks in the sidewalk to catch luggage wheels. Since it was too early to check into our Airbnb, the host graciously prearranged for us to drop our bags in an unoccupied flat next door. Keys were easily received from a lock box. We never saw our host in person!
We then headed for
Schwartz's, one of the oldest delis in Canada. Denise and I split a smoked meat sandwich, as we were saving space in our tummies for other delicacies. There was a lot of meat packed in between the bread slices! Many tourists were eating here; you could tell from all the picture-taking.
After brunch, we shopped around, then headed towards the
Chalet du Mont-Royal to get an expansive view of Montreal. It was a long uphill trek with trails and stairs, but the beautiful scenery was worth it. (you could have walked the long way around/drove/rode a bus to get there too)
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| interesting groceries |
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| first signs of autumn! |
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| we're taking the orange route |
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| nice but not at the top yet |
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| almost there |
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| Chalet du Mont-Royal |
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| inside of the chalet |
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| we made it! |
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We then headed back down for our second meal at
Fairmount Bagel, the first establishment of its kind in Montreal. The bagels were tasty, with a nice texture. The line was out the door when we got there, but it moved fast as there was only take-away. We washed them down with something sweet from the cafe next door.
We headed back to Old Port as it was getting closer to check-in at our Airbnb. There were many people milling about the area.
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| streets of Old Port |
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| Chateau Ramezay |
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| love the color |
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| City Hall |
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We decided to have an early dinner at
Montreal Poutine. I am not a fan of poutine since I like my fries crispy, but it's a local favorite so had to partake.
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| almost regret adding the hot dog; peach juice was tasty |
We checked into our Airbnb and it ended up being a different unit as renovations were going on in the one originally reserved. No complaints since it was an upgrade; the flat had two separate sleeping areas, versus the original studio with one bed plus sofabed. We crashed early in the night, being sleep-deprived and jet-lagged.
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| steep stairs, no elevator |
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| full kitchen |
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| living room |
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| a rain shower/tub combo |
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The next morning, we visited the nearby
Notre Dame Basilica. It was beautiful inside, with exquisite lighting that complemented the decor and stained glass windows.
We learned that there was a show called
AURA offered in the evening and inquired about tickets, but it was sold out. We ended up getting tickets for tomorrow evening.
For brunch, we saw people coming in and out of a place called
Tommy nearby, so we went in. What a cool cafe! Hip environment, free wi-fi and tasty bites, what's not to like?
We walked through Chinatown and tried
dragon's beard candy.
Denise and I hopped onto the metro to get to
Jean-Talon public market. We purchased a 3-day ticket since we had that many days left in Montreal. Having the ticket in hand would help us board the 747 bus back to the airport easier since there weren't any kiosks next to our bus stop. (looking back, we could have purchased a 3-day ticket at the airport and used it on the 747 bus then, but the ticket wouldn't be valid for our return bus ride 4 days later)
The market was colorful, with lots of fruits, vegetables and flowers. Not everything was open as it was a rainy afternoon. We found a pizza place for a late lunch.
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| the C15, big portion |
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We journeyed to another public market,
Atwater, and shared a decadent chocolate dessert at
Premiere Moisson.
We made our way back to Old Port and the rain was coming down harder. Dinner was at
Jardin Nelson. It looked closed at first, as the lighting was dark and people weren't crowding the entrance due to the wet weather. The restaurant was situated within a ruined building, open to the elements with greenery everywhere, sporting a roof consisting of multiple canvas parasols that cleverly diverted rainwater into a clear column so you could see the water flow. The jazz band played under a strategically covered stage. Not all tables were dry so those were vacant. Heat lamps were abundant to keep the patrons warm. It was definitely a unique environment. The menu offered a little bit of everything, from sandwiches to poke to crepes to pizza to please all tastes.
We also tried a Quebec classic -
pouding chômeur (poor man's pudding).
Tuesday morning, Denise and I took a walk along the bank of the St. Lawrence River. Silversea's
Silver Wind was parked at the
Montreal Cruise Terminal. At the end of the terminal was a grassy area with seating. Across the river was an interesting looking apartment complex called
Habitat 67, which reminded me of the stacked mobile homes in the book/movie
Ready Player One.
We went to Tommy again for brunch.
Afterwards, we took public transportation to
Saint Joseph's Oratory, Canada's largest church. The imposing edifice was surrounded by beautiful landscape. The staircase leading to the front of the basilica included a center (white painted) section reserved for pilgrims wishing to climb on their knees. The interior was surprisingly comtemporary. It was also the first time I had seen escalators inside a church. On the mezzanine, visitors are rewarded with an expansive view of the grounds and surrounding cityscape. We enjoyed a walk around the
Garden of the Way of the Cross, with autumn colors abound.
Drag your mouse on this 360 spherical photo of the inside of Saint Joseph's Oratory: (click
here if you cannot see the preview below)
Saint Joseph's Oratory #theta360 - Spherical Image - RICOH THETA
Drag your mouse on this 360 spherical photo of the view from Saint Joseph's Oratory: (click
here if you cannot see the preview below)
View at Saint Joseph's Oratory #theta360 - Spherical Image - RICOH THETA
After our visit to Saint Joseph's, we took public transportation to
Complexe Desjardins, a shopping mall with an indoor fountain. We were in search of souvenirs, but there was only one shop that fit the bill and it didn't have what we were looking for, so we headed to the food court for a very late lunch.
We returned to Old Port to catch the AURA show at Notre Dame. I wasn't expecting a lot as it seemed touristy at first, but it truly was an amazing spectacle. The lights, the lasers, the projections - it felt like the church was transformed into a vehicle, whisking the audience away to another world. Pictures weren't allowed during the performance, but their video advertisement gives you a taste: (click
here if you cannot see the preview below)
I highly recommend seeing AURA. People start queuing up early to get in; we got there 30 minutes before and the line was already around the church. Once inside, the staff explain that you can walk around the perimeter to see the thematic decor, but don't spend too much time on that since it's more important to grab seats in the center of the cathedral to get the best view of the multimedia experience. I thought I would be able to view more of the decor after the show, but everything shut down after it ended.
Drag your mouse on this 360 spherical photo of the inside of Notre Dame Basilica: (click
here if you cannot see the preview below)
Waiting for AURA #theta360 - Spherical Image - RICOH THETA
The night continued with an incredible dinner at nearby
Le Robin Square, highly rated on the internet. The food was yummy!
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| burrata, foie gras |
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| gnocchi, pork belly |
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| dessert menu was jotted down on the table |
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| omg so good |
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| Jardin Nelson in good weather |
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Wednesday came - time to go home. Denise and I checked out of the Airbnb and caught the 747 back to the airport. At first, I was worried that the bus would be full because our stop was not a terminus and I had read reviews about people not being able to get a seat. I was tempted to take the metro to the beginning of the 747 route, but decided not to worry, and ended up with plenty of space on the bus. It probably helped that it was mid-morning on a weekday.
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| one of many colorful murals around Montreal |
At the airport, we had lots of time to grab lunch at one of the food outlets. (no lounge available in our terminal)
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| more yummy bagels |
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After eating, we headed to our gates, then I heard my name being called on the PA system, directing me to go to a different gate. There, the agent asked if I would be willing to switch from my current itinerary (YUL-IAD-SFO-SMF) on United to a slightly shorter YUL-SFO-SMF flight on Air Canada, since the flight from YUL-IAD was oversold. It would be nice not having to stop twice, so I took the new ticket plus meal vouchers good for the day. I had already eaten lunch, and would use the
Centurion Lounge in SFO, so I gave the vouchers to Denise in case she could use them during her layover.
There was a bit of stress involved since I had no seat assignment. The agent at the new gate seemed to not have any authority to process my request and directed me to go to the Air Canada customer service desk. However, there were people in line who needed their flights changed due to cancellation, so the agents there were taking a lot of time trying to find itineraries for them. Boarding time was getting close and another cancelled passenger was ahead of me. Another agent came to help and the wait was shortened. Eventually, my new ticket was processed and seat assignment given, with a few minutes to spare before boarding started. After settling into my aisle seat, the flight attendant asked for my snack and meal choice from the
Bistro Menu. Apparently my new ticket was priced as full fare and the Bistro was included. It wasn't bad for airplane food.
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| healthy snack |
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| Freshii bowl |
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In San Francisco (SFO), I spent the layover at the Centurion Lounge. Pretty full from the meal on the previous flight, I had veggies and soup, though I could not resist a dessert (or two).
And that's the end of the trip! It was my first time in Montreal and the three full days we had were enough to see a lot of sights and eat yummy food, perfect for a long weekend getaway, especially if you can get there by plane in two hours or less. You can consider staying in Airbnbs or VRBOs to save money on lodging. It was nice to be there in autumn with the flora awash in fall color. Public transportation is easy to navigate. Canada/New England cruises start and stop in Montreal, so adding a few days pre- or post-cruise in this vibrant city would be worthwhile. If you are interested in visiting Montreal by either land or cruise and would like assistance or ideas on what to do, feel free to contact me anytime.
Now what's next? 10 days in Kauai...stay tuned!
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Another disclaimer: The intention of this blog was to remind Future Me in full detail about where I went and what I did. I could have made it private, but I frequently get questions from family, friends and internet folks about how I planned things, got deals, etc., so instead of repeating the story over and over, I direct them here. If you are offended by anything I say or do, save yourself the discomfort and kindly click away from my blog. Thanks for reading and have a wonderful day!
