Friday, November 22, 2013

Getting to London, riding the HOHO, visiting the British Museum - May 25-26, 2013


Trip Index

***

Back in January, Kaleb's (now) stepdad Gerry asked for help in planning a trip to Europe as a present to Kaleb's mom Sue, and if we would like to join them.  Due to lack of vacation time, I limited the scope of the trip to London and Dublin to allow time for sightseeing without rushing too much.  I've been to those cities before on a Brendan Vacations land tour many years ago, but as this would be Sue and Kaleb's first trip to Europe, I thought it'd be wise to start with English-speaking cities to break them in.  Packaged tours weren't available that fit our requirements, so I booked everything independently.

As Gerry and Sue lived in Pennsylvania and we wanted to fly with them to eliminate the stress of catching up with each other in London, we had no choice but to book with US Airways through Philadelphia, even though we had non-stop options from the West Coast.  Our flight included a 3-hour layover in Phoenix and another 3-hour layover in Philadelphia, making it a long journey for us.  Fortunately, I had the United Club Visa (with first year free), so Kaleb and I were able to get into the US Airways lounge in both airports to pass the time.

Flavia drink machine in PHX lounge
hot soup and other goodies in PHL lounge
"turn off devices" instead of "no smoking"
Liberty Bell made of Legos in Philadelphia

We met up with Sue and Gerry at a food court near our departure gate.  Our plane was an Airbus A330, which had a 2-4-2 configuration.  At reservation, we were able to secure two pairs of two-seaters in adjacent rows, sweet!  This being an overnight flight, we attempted to get some rest by taking sleeping pills, but it didn't work for everyone.  I declined the late night meal as I was full from dinner.  For breakfast, we were served muffin tops.

heated for your eating pleasure

Arriving into London Heathrow Airport, we got our luggage and made our way through immigration without a hitch.  Our home for the next three nights was at the B+B Belgravia, which I had found through perusing TripAdvisor reviews.  Sue had requested that we stay in establishments that were more personable than a large hotel.  B+B Belgravia was a small, modern hotel that was affordable, included breakfast, and offered a two-bedroom suite with private bath that was less expensive than two individual en-suite rooms.  It was located a few minutes' walk from Victoria Coach Station, which was convenient in terms of airport transportation as well as tour starting points.

Last time I was in London, to save on costs, we took the Underground (also known as the Tube) from the airport to the hotel.  Since riding the Tube to Victoria would require transfers and we'd be carrying a bunch of luggage, I decided to pre-purchase tickets online for a National Express bus ride from the airport to Victoria Coach Station.  It was about $11 per person, a few dollars more than taking the Tube, but it was nice not having to worry about getting off at the transfer stop and lugging our bags across the station and up escalators while sleepy and jet-lagged.

bus waiting area at the airport

The tickets were for a specific bus and boarding time; if you missed the bus or wanted to make any amendments, you'd have to pay for any fare differences as well as a change fee.  There was some risk to buy the tickets ahead of time in the case of travel delays.  To be safe, you can buy tickets when you arrive in London, but you may need to wait longer for a bus that has enough seats for your party and pay a bit more for your fare, or you could take the Tube or hire a taxi.

Inside the bus terminal, an electronic board displayed each route and time remaining before the bus arrived as well as an assigned platform number for boarding.  Our bus ended up about 15 minutes late; we headed to the designated platform, showed the driver the tickets I printed from home, got on board and headed on our hour-long ride to Victoria.

bus had power outlets

After the bus dropped us off at Victoria Coach Station, we headed in the direction of the hotel, located in the Belgravia district a few minutes away.  It was a pleasant area, with townhouses lining the street.


It was hard to find B+B Belgravia as there was no prominent sign, just the name faintly frosted on a window above the front door.  We pressed the door buzzer and were let in by one of the employees.  Since we arrived in the morning, our room was not yet ready, so we left our luggage in the main sitting area of the hotel and went searching for some lunch, finding a restaurant down the street called Friars Inn that served fish and chips.  The menu offered several types of breaded fish.  Most of us went with traditional offerings such as cod.  Sue got adventurous and ordered the skate (lots of spiny cartilage).  The fish was perfectly battered and fried.  I didn't think the 'chips' were that great, but I am accustomed to American french fries.  Sprinkling salt and vinegar on them would have probably improved the taste.


After lunch, we returned to the hotel to find that our rooms were just about ready, so we were invited to sit down and have a beverage.  B+B Belgravia had many complimentary inclusions, like hot beverages from a gourmet coffee/tea machine, fresh fruit, bottled water, assorted cookies and candies.  The place also had free wi-fi, which was nice for our portable electronics, but they also had a laptop for guest use.  Apparently you could also call anywhere in England, but we never needed to.

sitting room of hotel
community laptop if you need internet access

Our room was in the basement of the building, so we had to carry our luggage down a flight of stairs (no elevators).  It wasn't completely underground, as there were windows that let in light and fresh air, with a view of a stairwell that led up to the main street.  The room stayed nice and cool despite having no air conditioning.

We were in a "double/double" room, which was a two-bedroom suite sharing one bathroom.  Sharing wasn't too bad since just outside the main door to our suite was a public bathroom with a sink and toilet, so we could use it when ours was occupied.

one bedroom
main door to left, hallway to other room, bathroom at end

The bathroom itself was pretty small, so I couldn't even get a good picture of it without standing way out in the hallway.  The door to the bathroom didn't close all the way nor lock; fortunately we didn't have to worry about anyone barging in while we were showering or on the toilet.

It was best if we stayed awake until proper bedtime, so we walked back to Victoria Coach Station to catch the HOHO (hop-on-hop-off) Big Bus that went around the city.  We were able to find seats on the second level of the double-decker bus.  The weather was perfect - cool air with sunny skies.  The HOHO bus was a great way to get some air to fight off jet lag and also get a taste of the city.

art vendors at the park
Wellington Arch
lion and unicorn
Duke of Wellington
Pagani window shopping
very English!
busy Piccadilly Circus
Napier memorial near the National Gallery
The Shard, tallest building in the EU
Big Ben
Tower Bridge
Westminster Abbey grounds
London Eye

We transferred over to the Green Line HOHO to get in one hour at the British Museum before it closed (free admission).  You pretty much need a whole day there to look at all of the exhibits.  We also stopped at the Highland Store across the street as Sue wanted to buy a clan-specific tartan kilt for Kaleb's brother Jarrett.

front of the British Museum
the actual Rosetta Stone
Egyptian artifacts
fist bump
Hoa Hakananai'a
stone entryway
atrium

Afterwards, we rode the HOHO back to Victoria Coach Station and returned to the hotel to freshen up before dinner.  We found a restaurant close by called the Ebury Restaurant and Wine Bar that had delicious food and reasonable prices on their set menus served between 6pm and 8pm that include 2 or 3 courses and complimentary champagne.

witty paintings on the wall
bread basket (which you had to order, not included)
minestrone verde
beetroot cured salmon with celery remoulade
sea bass filet with an awesome crushed pea salad
roast duck breast, sweet potato puree, orange sauce
banana sticky toffee pudding with caramel sauce
vanilla panacotta with strawberry soup
strawberry and chocolate shortcake, delicious!

Finally it was time to sleep.  We were getting up early tomorrow morning to go on a "Special Access" tour to Stonehenge with an opportunity to walk inside the stone circle...stay tuned!


Monday, November 4, 2013

North Bay Brewery Tour and a creative dinner at Michael Warring - May 19, 2013


My cousin Sheri and her boyfriend (now fiance!) Chris, whom you've seen in prior blog posts, asked if we wanted to try out a 2-for-1 North Bay Brewery Tour that they found on Groupon.  Kaleb is a beer connoisseur, so it was a definite yes!

The tour pick-up spot was at the Sonoma-Marin Fairgrounds parking lot in Petaluma.  It was a big place, so we weren't sure where the bus would be parked or if we'd be able to identify it.  An event was going on at the fairgrounds, plus there was a "park and fly" lot; multiple buses and shuttles drove by while we were waiting.  None of the other tour participants were around, making us question "Is that the bus?" every time one passed and worried that we were in the wrong place.  In the end, the shuttle bus on time, clearly labeled, and pick-up was near the front of the fairgrounds entrance.

not taken at the fairgrounds, but this is what the bus looks like

The shuttle bus held about 16 passengers, and it had a bar onboard with two beer taps, locked up when the bus was in motion.  Today's keg was from Lagunitas; it's been too long so I can't recall for sure, but I think the brew was New Dogtown Pale Ale.  There was also a cooler loaded with bottled water for re-hydration.


Each of the seating areas had cup holders on the wall to hold your beer.  Our area only had two working ones as previous patrons had gotten too rowdy.

getting our beer on before heading to our first stop

This tour was the regular "brewery bus tour", which included (as described on their website):
  • Safe round-trip transportation to three different breweries over approximately 5 hours
  • Beer Service provided on the bus – along with cold water for when you need to rehydrate!
  • A short presentation on the ingredients of beer and how it’s made (if you’re interested)
  • A fun party atmosphere with fellow like-minded beer drinkers
  • At the end of the day we would be happy to call you a cab, drop you off at a nearby restaurant / hotel, or any other safe place nearby to sober up so you don’t need to drive
Our driver was also the tour guide and bartender; normally there would be two people running the tour but his partner was absent.  Since it was a one-man show, he had to drop us off at the location and leave us to our own devices while he parked the bus.  Today, there was some kind of festival or parade in town; he told us there would be too much traffic to get to the Lagunitas brewery, so he went to an alternate location.  The experience to me felt more like a pub crawl than a brewery tour.  There wasn't any sort of special treatment at the locations; we ordered from the bar like the general public.  I don't think it was worth the Groupon price of $75 per couple, which didn't include any beer outside the bus.  Regular price was $75 per person!  Perhaps under normal operating conditions (two tour guides and no traffic), the tour would have been more interesting.  If I were to do this again, I would consider the "VIP tour", which included beer tastings, lunch, and a behind-the-scenes brewery tour.  We tried to upgrade our tour to VIP, but it wasn't possible with the Groupon.

Our first stop was Hopmonk Tavern in Sebastopol.  It was not a brewery, just a regular bar with a large selection of beers on tap as well as a plethora of bottled beer.  There was an outdoor seating area called the "beer garden", with a few hop plants growing along the edges.  We tried a beer sampler and also ordered lunch.  The food was all right but I didn't take pictures.  This was where our driver/guide gave us the "short presentation" on beer.  It was a five-minute spiel about what goes into making beer, and he showed us a plastic tackle box filled with dry ingredients including hops and barley of varying roasts.

not a brewery
beer taster

Our second stop was to the Stumptown Brewery in Guerneville.  To get there and back, we needed to take the freeway, and we had the most fun then.  Passing cars could see us drinking beer in the bus so we'd wave or nod to them with our cups and they'd be smiling and giving us thumbs up.

At Stumptown, it had looked more promising as a stop as there was brewing equipment displayed, but there wasn't much else besides ordering beer.  A couple sitting next to us on the bus were home brewing hobbyists and spoke of their disappointment as they were hoping to add to their knowledge base.  They even hired babysitters for their kids and this was supposed to be a special outing for them.  They didn't purchase any extra beer and just looked at whatever equipment was on display at each location.

Stumptown's location along the Russian River was nice

The third and last stop was to the Bear Republic Brewing Company in Healdsburg.  It was pretty crowded.  We ordered beer and some snacks.  The home brewery couple ended up strolling the area and getting a bite to eat at a Mexican restaurant!  I felt bad for them and hoped they didn't pay $75 each for the tour.


Afterwards, the tour bus returned to the fairgrounds, and we made our way to Vallejo for dinner at Michael Warring.  Originally, we had considered a restaurant in Napa Valley, but it was a long drive from Petaluma in the wrong direction.  I searched the map for cities we'd pass through, used Yelp to find highly-rated restaurants in the area, and found Michael Warring with almost all 5-star ratings.  I made reservations at the opening time of 5:30pm as the tour was supposed to end at 4:30pm.  However, as we were late getting back to the fairgrounds, plus traffic getting to Vallejo, I called the restaurant along the way to tell them we'd be late and they said it was no problem.

In the many years of driving over the desolate rolling hills between Fairfield and Vallejo on Interstate 80, I finally had a reason to take that lone American Canyon/Hiddenbrooke exit.  It lead to a master-planned residential community, with a non-descript strip mall just inside the main entrance.  It was hard to believe that a highly-rated restaurant was tucked in there.  The exterior was also non-descript, no signs except the name "michael warring" on a dark tinted window.  When Kaleb and I entered the restaurant, there was no one there, which was probably why it was okay we were late!  Our hostess/server Ali said that normally it would be busy on Sunday nights, but there must have been a major event in town.  We were seated at the counter with a direct view of the kitchen.  Sheri and Chris arrived ten minutes later.

The restaurant was very intimate; I would estimate a maximum occupancy of 20 people, made up of 2-tops that could be pushed together for larger groups, plus counter seating.  I think there might have been a round table for six as well.  The menu was different every night, consisting of a four-course tasting for $49 with options to add a wine or beer pairing.

view of the kitchen and Michael's back

Our first course was the most inventive of the four; a glass jar lined with panna cotta at the bottom, topped with chunks of raw salmon, garnished with mini waffle croutons and seaweed, then capped with the lid and filled with smoke.  It was delightful to mix the mildly sweet, medium-dense texture of the panna cotta with the fresh salmon.  It was a bit odd to mix dessert with sashimi and breakfast, but it really worked since I enjoy both sweet and savory foods equally.  I kept scraping little bits of panna cotta into my spoon, putting it into my mouth, and thinking, "Wow, this is awesome!"


The second course was a soft polenta topped with an egg and arugula salad.  I had asked when we got the menu if Michael could substitute anything for the polenta as I am mildly allergic to corn products, but all he could do was give me a smaller portion of polenta and more arugula, which was okay with me.  The polenta was creamy and was balanced with the spiciness of the arugula.

this was Kaleb's regular portion of polenta

The main entree was a coulotte steak (fancier term for top sirloin cap) with the most amazing morel mushrooms and accompanying sauce.  The morels were soaked with flavor and the beef was perfectly cooked and tender.

lots of effort using tweezers to put the flowers onto the plate

During the meal so far, we were the only patrons, so we took the opportunity in between dish preparations to ask Michael questions about the restaurant origins, the food, where he came from, etc.  He was very nice and it felt like we were old friends.  When Michael resumed cooking and plating the food, he was really intense and focused on perfecting each dish.

To finish, we were served a tasty pain perdu (aka fancy French toast) surrounded in creme anglaise.  The air was filled with cinnamon and butter while he was preparing it.  At this time, a couple came into the restaurant, and it was interesting to watch Michael start the menu over again for them while we were enjoying our dessert.


In the end, I didn't have to unbuckle my pants but each dish tantalized my taste buds.  Based on the recent Yelp reviews, Michael had changed the menu to a five-course meal for $59 and added an amuse-bouche, so those who have bigger stomachs may be more satisfied.  However, I thought that the portion sizes were just enough to enjoy each element and any more would have destroyed Michael's intent.  Less can be more..an exercise in restraint is good for all of us.  Enjoy each bite.

It was so refreshing to find this gem of a restaurant that saves 30 minutes driving into Yountville or St. Helena.  Next up, a 9-day jaunt to London, Dublin and the surrounding area!