Sunday, August 31, 2014

Franz Josef Glacier - March 24-25, 2014


Trip Index

***

Kaleb and I woke up Monday morning and found ducks frolicking next to the brook outside our motel room.

quack quack

After a quick breakfast, we checked out, hopped in the car and drove towards Franz Josef Glacier village.  We made a few stops, including vista points and a quick hike to Blue Pools.  Despite the fresh, clear water, there were mosquitoes which enjoyed a meal from me. :(

windy day on Lake Wanaka
weather starting to turn
bridge over Blue Pools
it'd be even bluer if it was sunny
super clear water
vista point off Haast Highway on the West Coast

We arrived at Punga Grove Motel in Franz Josef Glacier village, checked in and got a bottle of milk.

okay bed
toiletries
good sized bathroom
shower only
kitchen
coffee/tea/hot chocolate/cookie

We got a hold of Jen and Nate (remember our fellow hikers on the Routeburn Track?) and made plans to meet for dinner.  In the meantime, Kaleb and I roamed the small "main street" looking for souvenirs and found a nice selection at the West Coast Wildlife Centre.  He ended up buying some wool gloves and paua shell jewelry for his mom and sister.  I got some paua earrings and a necklace as well as a piece of cake in the cafe to tie me over until mealtime.

moist lemon pound cake

Afterwards, we headed over to The Landing to meet up with our new friends.  They had done some fun kayaking at a nearby lake as part of a combo tour; Jen's cousin Tyler worked there as a guide which was cool.  A heli-hike was part of their package, but it was postponed until tomorrow due to inclement weather.  They also had a voucher for a pizza dinner at The Landing.  I had seen signs advertising whitebait fish on the side of the highway coming here so when I saw whitebait fritters on the menu, I had to order it.  I couldn't really taste any fish, just egg, so it was disappointing, especially paying $38 for essentially a thin omelette over fries and slaw.  On the other hand, the pizzas were pretty good, so I would eat that on a return visit.

mussels (ok)
whitebait fritters (meh)
venison stew (decent)

After dinner, we found out that Tyler was performing a fire show in front of Chateau Franz hostel, so we returned to our motels to freshen up and met up again later that night.  Jen was waiting for a call from Tyler to know when the show would start, so to pass the time, we stopped by the Alice May restaurant for beer.  I was the last of us to enter the quaint establishment and right when I walked past the threshold, an elderly gentleman enjoying a laugh with his comrades got up from a table and somehow in the process, punched me in the stomach!  He didn't see I was coming up behind him as he swirled from his seat.  I was so surprised, all I could say to him was, "You punched me in the stomach!" and continued walking towards the bar.  It didn't hurt, just pushed some air out of my lungs.  He seemed in shock as he stood there digesting what just happened.

enjoying a pint

Of course, right when the beers were poured by the bartender, Tyler calls and everyone had to quickly down their libations.  We walked a few minutes over to the hostel to watch the festivities.  Fire dancing in this sleepy hamlet?  The demonstration was pretty cool, in fact, we could have played with the burning props if we wanted to, but I personally didn't want my hands reeking of kerosene.

32-second clip of Tyler and others showing off their skills: (click here if you cannot see the preview below)


some cool shots I caught with my point-and-shoot
even works in black-and-white

After the event, we bid good night and bon voyage to our new found friends and headed back to our motel.

The next day, we were scheduled for an Ice Explorer helicopter hike on Franz Josef Glacier, but the weather was not in our favor.  It was raining in the morning.  Our appointment was for 11:50am; the rain had stopped by then.  Still hopeful, we headed over to the Franz Josef Glacier Guides office on the main street but we saw a sign propped up outside saying "No glacier tours today". :(  We went in and received a receipt for tour cancellation due to weather.  New Zealand Fine Touring would refund the money to us as the glacier guide company hadn't been paid yet.  Since we had hiked on a glacier in Canada less than a year ago, we didn't feel like we missed out but it would have been our first helicopter ride.

For Plan B, we went on a few hikesLake Wombat, Franz Josef Glacier, and Terrace Walk.

Lake Wombat trailhead
relatively easy stroll
surreal environment
blue mushrooms!  bet they're poisonous
after walking through the mysterious forest, Lake Wombat was almost a let-down!
approaching Franz Josef Glacier - too cloudy for helicopters to fly

35-second vid of the Franz Josef Glacier area: (click here if you cannot see the preview below)


look how far the glacier has retreated since 2008
glacier even more retreated in 2014
waterfalls
Terrace Walk trail, easy
mysterious
we didn't know about this, had to turn back
bridge connecting village to the main highway

We drove back to the motel, then walked to the grocery store to grab something for dinner.

our rental was a Corolla hatchback...which one is ours????
tonight's dinner, yum yum

Our visit to New Zealand was getting close to the end. :(  Tomorrow, we drive to Greymouth and hop on the Tranz Alpine train back to Christchurch...stay tuned!

***

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Previous post:  Arrowtown, Wanaka, Mount Roy Track

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Arrowtown, Wanaka, Mount Roy Track - March 22-23, 2014


Trip Index

***

Saturday morning, we checked out of our room and got a taxi ride to the Queenstown airport to pick up our rental car from Europcar.  The taxi was included in our self-drive package from New Zealand Fine Touring.  The driver helped us grab a cart for our luggage, making it strange not to tip as it is not done in New Zealand.  We Americans have tipping so engrained in our culture.

heading to our rental car
we're a long way from home

Wanaka was a town situated on the shores of a lake with the same name, pronounced "wa-na-ka" with no emphasis on any syllable.  I believe we gave our Australian friends on the hike a silent chuckle when we told them our next destination was "wa-NA-ka" and they responded, "Oh...Wanaka!", but pronounced properly.

Wanaka was only an hour's drive from Queenstown, so we took a detour to visit Arrowtown, established during New Zealand's gold rush, almost around the same time as California.

downtown Arrowtown then (courtesy of arrowtown.com)
downtown Arrowtown now

I was hungry for some brunch, so we walked around looking for something to eat.  We spotted diners sitting on a second story balcony tucked in between buildings so we headed there.  The restaurant, The Chop Shop Food Merchants, turned out to be #3 ranked on Tripadvisor.  The balcony was full so we ate inside.  The food was really good and fresh, especially the Turkish poached eggs.

hard-to-find place
interesting front door handle
today's menu
drinks
a terrarium-style jar on the table
it's water, not vodka
huevos rancheros
Turkish poached eggs
open kitchen
are those lizard skulls on display in the bathroom?

After brunch, we walked over to the Arrowtown Chinese Settlement, now a historical area.  The miners lived in small quarters built with whatever was available.  The experience of the Chinese men who came to Arrowtown was very similar to those who went to California.

requisite picture standing next to the sign
very similar story to California's gold rush
his store was open through 1925
the usual racism
ha!  "the yellow peril"
six men would live in this small house
inside the house
outhouse
other structures built into the hill

After our brief visit, we hopped back into the car and drove to Wanaka via the Crown Range Road, New Zealand's highest sealed road.

vista point
two lane road winding up Crown Range

Our home for the next two nights was at the Clearbrook Motel.  It really was right beside a "clear brook"!  We were lucky to get an upgrade to a 1-bedroom apartment on ground level right next to the gurgling water.  The accommodations were very nice.  We almost did laundry again back at Blue Peaks Lodge, but glad that we procrastinated as this apartment had a washer/dryer that didn't need tokens, and I was already carrying laundry detergent in my luggage.

Clearbrook Motel
sliding glass doors to the outside
a brook does flow out here
living room with a twin bed, similar to Blue Peaks Lodge
full kitchen
coffee, tea and chocolate
master bedroom
nice large bathroom
jacuzzi tub and washer/dryer
nice view of the mountains

The motel was close to downtown Wanaka so we walked.  Even though it was late in the season, there were still a few people willing to swim in the brisk waters.

Lake Wanaka
people frolicking in the water

We stopped at Wanaka Speights Ale House across from the shore to have a beer and snacks.

mmm...beer
decent fries

As we didn't have lunch, I was wanting something more substantial.  Nothing on the bar menu sounded good, so we headed to one of the restaurants that I had researched earlier on Tripadvisor, Capriccio.

more Bluff oysters...almost as good as in Auckland
beef carpaccio...mmm mmm good
catch of the day
green-lipped mussels, but not as good as in Taupo

We passed on dessert as I had seen there was a gelateria called Black Peak Gelato right under the restaurant, but by the time we got there, they were closed. :(   We ended up going to the grocery store in town and grabbing some local ice cream.

Deep South premium NZ ice cream
lots of cookies

The next day, we packed a lunch and drove to the trailhead to hike Roy's Peak Track (also called Mount Roy Track).  I was not prepared for the constant steep climb and it was a hot day.  I was practically stopping at every other switchback to catch my breath.  Even playing a thumping tune in my head didn't make my feet move like they normally would.  Lunch stop didn't help either; I was just plain exhausted and no amount of calories could fill my empty tank.  We did not reach the peak; Kaleb made a decision before starting the hike that we would make it back to Wanaka in time to have gelato. (he knows it's always about the food with me!)  That and my slow progress caused us to turn around about a couple of hours from the top (at my pace).  I felt like a failure but Kaleb was such a good sport, telling me "Look how far we've gone!" and that he was proud of me.  I'm sure that if I wasn't with him, he would have reached the peak, but I'm fortunate that he is more interested in hiking with me than be preoccupied with the finish line.  What a great guy. :)  Despite the failed attempt to ascend Mount Roy, we were treated to spectacular views of Lake Wanaka.

our car parked down there and we were only hiking for a few minutes
the trail kept going up and up; my feet felt like they were at 45 degrees all the time
lots of sheep grazing on the hill
and lots of poop to go with it
beautiful lake and mountains
the town of Wanaka in the background
still had a long way to go, but had to turn back
flowers along the way
big bumblebee
down was a lot easier!

We did make it back in time for a refreshing treat at Black Peak Gelato.  Yum!

flavors can change daily...we didn't see the peach that we saw last night through the window
one of those cones is mine :)

Ice cream was not substantial enough, so we tried one of the restaurants along the lakefront called Alivate as they had Bluff oysters on the menu.

Bluff oysters (yummy) and green-lipped mussels (ok)

With the gelato still fresh in our memories, we ended up going back and getting a second helping to share!


Tummies satisfied, we walked along the lakeshore one more time before heading back to the motel.

pretty sunset from our patio

In the next installment, we leave Wanaka and drive to Franz Josef Glacier village.  Stay tuned!

***

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